Ireland 2015

Outlook: mostly cloudy with prolonged periods of Guinness later in the day and occasional musical intervals.

Margaret's mother was born in Ireland and many relatives still live there. Margaret hadn't seen them in 15 years and I'd never met them, so a visit was long overdue. I'd only ever been to Ireland once, for 6 days in 1980, 35 years ago. After that trip I'd written in a journal "Ireland - better than expected - can't wait to come again!" (Half a lifetime later, here I was)

We ‘Michael O'Leary’ed’ it (on Ryan Air), having been surprised at the cost of taking our own car and the ferry across the Irish Sea. With a nod to nostalgia I thought I'd dig out and use the maps from 1980 (figuring the towns will still be in the same place, even if their appearance may have changed).

As we drove our hire car away from Dublin Airport onto a three lane motorway, clearly not a part of my historic map, this idea appeared a daft one. This was the new 'iLand. Euro model' and we had to somehow find how to get to Edenderry and the relatives. Logic suggested we go west towards Galway and then Margaret recognised names and the sign posts did the rest in getting us there.

We planned to stay a few days, then have a few days away in the SW and to return again before leaving a week later.

There was a lot of catching up to do. There was plenty of talking, interspersed with cups of tea, making note of all the family members (26 first cousins at the last count!), hearing of their whereabouts (many still live right round the corner), all the news, stories and laughter and tea, bingo, refreshments in Larkin's pub, more talking and more donkeys minus their hind legs and finally photos* and farewells. It was lots of fun, and if personally I didn't always understand every word that was spoken, I understood the bond of families and fond memories. And we only met a small part of the family, there's lots more!
* see: http://mandbtales1.blogspot.co.uk/2015/08/family-photos.html

In between all this we spent the middle of the week in SW Ireland. Now this was for me a trip down memory lane, but for Margaret, a first. We lucked out by finding a great B&B in Kenmare, County Kerry, run by Maureen Harrington (famous Irish cross-country athlete from the Nineties) and still running all over the place. She had a beautiful house and couldn't do enough for us, even if she spoke so quickly she remained largely incomprehensible to me most of the time (and occasionally Margaret).

Maureen recommended seeing the Ring of Beara as opposed to the more famous Ring of Kerry.

Kenmare Bay, in the sunshine

So, waiting patiently for a sunny day, we set off early morning driving west in an anti-clockwise direction. Fairly soon the road narrowed and we had to carefully make our way past cyclists, but the absence of any coaches or buses (they really wouldn’t have been able to get down the road, simple as that) made for a quiet and less harrowing journey, though concentration was still on high alert. Twisting and winding through wooded and picturesque scenery, with sheep velcro’ed to impossibly steep grassy slopes the road climbed and then suddenly coastal vistas opened up ahead of us in breathtaking fashion. Despite the perfect day for it we were often the only car on the road, which added to the enjoyment. The day should also be remembered as possibly Eire’s ‘Summer’ 2015, Wednesday 15 July it was!!!

Very pretty (and tidy) towns - Eyeries and Allihies - were lovely stops along the way to the end of the peninsula where we had hoped to take the cable car to Dursey Island. 

Pretty and tidy - Margaret and Eyeries

Unfortunately, due to our leisurely pace, so many people had got there before us and due to carrying capacity and the numbers of visitors already on the island it would have meant a very lengthy queue to come back later in the day.

More fuchsia, fern and rhododendron-lined narrow roads took us back to Castletownbere, the largest town we encountered, as the south part of Beara contrasted nicely with the earlier northern drive. The central mountains looked beautiful but we stuck to the ring and arrived in Glengarriff for dinner. We missed the Healey pass and concluded this would have to be experienced another time.

The final section of our fantastic day’s drive was the wider N71 through the Caha pass involving a number of rock tunnels before returning to Kenmare just as the sun set on an absolutely Grand Day Out.

Two things emerged on this day. The town of Glengarriff, that in 1980 I had specifically noted as being somewhere I'd love to spend more time in, looked nothing like I remembered it. And in Castletownbere we found the exact bar photographed on the cover Pete McCarthy's travel book "McCarthy's Bar" that Margaret had been reading before and during our trip. See our picture and http://www.roadjunky.com/657/pete-mccarthy-mccarthys-bar-ireland-travel/

MacCarthy's Grocery & Bar - before the graphic studio doctored the name - see link.

Most other days we enjoyed the empty backroads (avoiding the busier motorways with their tolls) and noticed the litter free towns we past, as the hypnotic swishing of the car window wiper blades accompanied warnings of severe bends, which were heeded as the ‘sea-mist’ (Irish for rain) continued. The Irish do have a way with words, often describing the weather as fierce and/or desperate. A tad extreme, but all part of the fun!

Retro mac and waterfall in the rain

Another Mac Bar. Slainte!

FINAL PLUG:

Not your traditional Irish music that plays in just about every shop and bar you enter, check out a band called 'Frantic Jack' - they're from Edenderry, and they're good. Lots of videos on YouTube.

Cape Town in Panavision

Having bought our little flat in Cape Town over a year ago it seemed about time we went and stayed in it. This was always going to be more than just a holiday - after all there was work to be done: checking over the flat, odd jobs to attend to, updating furnishings and then there was the banking to sort out. I'm not going to bore you rigid with the details, safe to say though this occupied some of our time.

In between however we caught up with family and friends and enjoyed the warmer weather of Autumn as we explored Hout Bay and the immediate area near our flat. We also visited many wine estates and spent a lovely night in Pringle Bay at Yvonne and Anthony's place. The view from their deck was the first of many panorama photos I took, which will follow this copy, if I can do them justice... and without you having to scroll back and forth to see them.

The location of our flat is a lot more convenient than I'd imagined. Out the gate, turn right, walk 50 metres turn down a short alleyway (fine in daylight, caution at night!), brings you into the main road across from the pub! Also, right there, are the shops and restaurants of all shapes and variety. Turn left and walk for less than 5 minutes and you're on the beach, surrounded by mountains. I've a panorama of this too.

We would discover many places nearby and with a bus to take you all the way into Cape Town you could easily get by without needing a car for all of your holiday.

The possibility of 'Load-shedding' (http://loadshedding.eskom.co.za/loadshedding/description) in South Africa was something we'd heard about but during the first week we only experienced once. But the second week these power 'black-outs' occurred quite often and the near miss of an ATM cash machine, shutting down before my eyes, just seconds after I'd completed the transaction was a close call to close for comfort. Also driving through busy intersections with all the traffic lights out was equally harrowing.

But we avoided any collisions, to drive on and visit more panoramas… (coming right up, be patient).

We definitely weren't ready to come home and look forward to our next trip. Hopping the seasons - into Autumn that seemed more like Summer and now back to Spring that feels more like Winter !

Pringle Bay view.

Hout Bay beach

Hout Bay from the harbour

Simonsig Winery - Mum, Margaret, Jackie and Robert.

NB: Photos of the flat can be found on our tales blog.  http://mandbtales1.blogspot.co.uk 

New York New York

America doesn't 'do' small, does it ?

From the Empire State Building at 1,250ft to huge Shopping Malls with big savings on merchandise with displays piled high. 

But we hadn't gone to bargain hunt but to visit friends and celebrate a 60th birthday. So either side or zooming up to the 80th floor of the Empire State in under one, ear-popping minute, before continuing to the 86th and finally the 102nd floor, we spent plenty of time talking, eating and visiting, along with laughing and talking, drinking and eating some more. Catching up with great friends and having a thoroughly enjoyable time.

We took a drive to Greenport at the end of Long Island (North fork). Wondered at all the Christmas lights and decorations. Visited a craft market and a small winery while admiring the lovely homes of Stony Brook. Not to mention the view from the Empire State and the window displays at Macy's and Bergdorf Goodman in the City.

On Toni's birthday we ate Italian at Bruno's, Howard Beach right near the airport. Which was brilliant. See picture below.

Happy Birthday, Toni. (centre, right) and Jimmy.

And, America is 'big' on hospitality too.
So if I can get with the lingo, "Happy holidays, everyone".  M&B x

Andalucia

The idea for this holiday took flight over a year ago when Jane and Nigel (of 'Narrowboat on the Thames' fame - see blog: April 2011) asked us if we'd like to join them for "a bit of a doo" to celebrate their BIG Birthdays in 2014. Having signed up to this Spanish "Big Birthday Bash" weekend, we thought why not tack a few extra days on and make a week of it. Seville was always the option and having eliminated a few detours along the way, it all came down to this:

SEVILLE

Our chosen hotel proved excellent. Not on top of the 'old' town, but close enough to walk, we found ourselves in a part of Seville surrounded by lovely bars frequented by locals around the Alameda de Hercules.

We hired bikes and cycled beside the river to the Maria Luisa Park. There were bike lanes everywhere and Seville drivers were very courteous and pleasantly aware of cyclists. (London, take note). On the 'hop on, hop off' bus tour we missed our 'hop off' because due to traffic build up the headphoned commentary wasn't always synchronized with where you were. Hence when they prompted you by saying you can hop off here, you may have not got there! or in our case, you may have past it already. We missed our intended stop in Triana due to this out-of-sync prompt.

(left, right) Hotel Vime Corregidor and cycling day

Selfie in Seville

We enjoyed an evening of Flamenco, which was fantastic. And we found a friendly bar just minutes from the hotel. 'Cerveceria el Realito' where they served, in an air-cooled atmosphere, delicious tapas and refreshing copas. It may well have been this heady combination of food and drink that caused these silly photos. I'll let you be the judge!

Leaving Seville on the Friday morning, armed only with the hotel's substitute breakfast - a picnic containing a sandwich of cheese and ham (not one with cheese and jam on! as we had thought) - we took a rather unspectacular train journey to Malaga to meet up with the birthday group.

Not as warm as in Seville, eight of us boarded a bus that would take us up into the mountains via a very winding narrow 'main' road to the hotel: 

Room View

Weekend walkers: Jan, Jane, Julian, Sabina, Toni, Richard, Humphrey, Margaret and Nigel

The Finca, from the tree house

FINCA EL CERRILLO

What a find!

Moorish courtyard
For more details see: www.hotelfinca.com/

As we meet up with the rest of the group (16 in total) the first thing we did after arriving was a quick tour of everyone else's room to discover they were all very individual and unique. And the views just amazing.

After this you did as much or as little as you wanted. Laze by the pool. Go on a walk to the nearby white towns of Canillas and Competa. Take in the view or put your feet up (with a drink) in the tree house. Maybe park off in the shade of secluded sitting areas. Or, simply enjoy the delicious food and hospitality on offer. The owners appear to have thought of everything and have created a lovely place in which to relax.

It was a great weekend. A great group of people to share it with. And a big 'thank you' to Jane and Nigel for inviting us.

Thailand

I had not been to Thailand in 27 years and Margaret had never been, so everyday there was something new to enjoy. From discovering mangosteins to the playing of the National Anthem on metro stations! Beautiful warm weather, calm friendly people, sandy beaches and palm trees and buddhas.

But rather than show you endless pictures of these (of which we have loads) I thought let’s intersperse them with a selection of anecdotes... I did initially call these ‘GOOGLES & TIPS’, but felt on reflection the play on words ‘NOODLES & CHIPS’ didn’t quite work.  

Our introduction to the Hotel iResidence was after a 12 hour flight from London followed by a confusing taxi ride through the Friday evening 'rush-hour' Bangkok traffic. We were tired and perhaps in another world.

We were shown our room and planned to eat before we fell asleep. We'd asked about the hotel restaurant and were told we could eat there, which was as far as we wanted to venture. On leaving our room the lights went out. Odd! We mentioned this at reception and went to the top floor restaurant, which was deserted and clearly not open for business. Back at reception we were told the electrics in our room were fixed. After eating just round the corner we got back to the room and the lights were still out. A few moments later a man appeared, juggled something at the fuse box and on came the electrics. Fine! However there was one light we simply couldn't turn off and had to sleep with this on regardless.

The next morning before going to breakfast the lights cut out again. Now frustrated we told reception they must fix this properly or give us another room. "You can move if you want sir", we were told. However after breakfast we met a hotel worker at our room and he showed us (for the first time) that by putting your room key into a small housing you operated the electrics for the room. Removing the key as you leave cuts them off and saves energy. Just wish someone had shown us this before. We then saw (also for the first time) the instruction to do this written (in English) on the key fob, we were just too tired and out of it to have noticed. I present this tale for others unfamiliar with these new-fangle modern hotel keys. 

This was our stay at the iResidence, Bangkok. 

Rocking-back and forth at the guest house.

From Bangkok we took the train south to Lang Suan, not on everyones' map, but the home of Colin, a friend of mine since junior schooldays. He and his wife have a house, inches from the beach which is fantastic and rather than simply not do it justice here, I've decided to add a separate (and larger) entry on our 'tales' blog page. (For those other 'old' school friends who may be interested).

Colinland he called it, is in a part of Thailand far removed from tourism. A disappearing Thailand someone had written in his visitors book. And he welcomes guests all the time. We stayed in the guest house, while another couple, Americans Leila and Bryan, stayed in the extra bedroom in the house.

After we'd slowed down, taken part in the dog-walking, relaxed and enjoyed 'happy-hour' on the upstairs terrace of the main house, we rocked-back and dropped out for a few days. It was just great. 

Pictures of Colin and Kyoko and ALL the dogs will appear on our other blog page, see www.mandbtales1.blogspot.co.uk/ 

For further details see:  http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2014/feb/03/durian-worlds-smelliest-fruit-sale-britain

After leaving Lang Suan we headed further south towards Phuket, only we went via Khao Lak and loved it so much we stayed six nights. A popular honeymoon destination this was not your fashion conscious lycra set, more your let it all hang out brigade. But paradise is fragile, as it was here that the 2004 tsunami caused a lot of damage but Khao Lak has made a remarkable recovery.

At a museum there were rooms showing videos, some of which were quite harrowing and frightening. It appeared those who took some of the videos from hotel balconies and roofs had some warning, but it left you wondering as your strolled along the beach afterwards how at any moment this could happen and how powerless you’d be in the circumstances. Signs pointing towards tsunami evacuation routes (seen in many places in Khao Lak) would only alert you to the danger and the direction of higher ground. No guarantees that it would save you.

The 'Up to You Bar' on the beach in Khao Lak was the perfect place to spend the afternoon. Swimming or just watching the warm waters of the Andaman Sea and drinking pina coladas at 100 baht a go. (less than £2). Same again, please.

In Bangkok as we left the Chao Phraya river pier for the Grand Palace we made our way through market stalls and then a jumble of people holding placards touting for your business. One told us some story that the Palace was closed, due to a ceremony, until early afternoon but they could take us (for a ride) to some other attractions and get us back again for its opening later on.

Suspicious, we side stepped this trip-trick and walked on regardless. At the main entrance to the Palace there was an official sign (in English) warning you to look out for and avoid 'wily strangers'. Naturally we were amused by this sign having already encountered Mr Wily, grateful for the helpful intention of the tip off and glad we were alive to the deception. 

We couldn't really end without at least one buddha, alright then two.

Cape Town. 2013

Almost one year after being in South Africa we found ourselves there once again, primarily to see Margaret's mum and to catch up with her after her 80th birthday a few months previously.

Keep up more like. It was good to see, following eye problems earlier in the year, that she was her usual active self and as determined and independent as ever.

We were able to take her out as often as she wanted to join us. And in between we visited friends. Here's a view by day diary of where we went and who we saw during our 16 day stay. (see map, for those of you unfamiliar with the area, scroll down if you are).

DAY ONE - VIEW ONE

Cape Town is never short on fantastic views, as you will see here. After taking for the first time the long-haul route to South Africa - via Dubai - we arrived tired and ready for sleep. Luckily we were in our hire car and driving away from the airport within half an hour of landing. Our first night was booked at Gordon's Bay in a B&B that offered a clear panorama of the whole of False Bay. (see pic). The only problem being the slight misnomer of the hotel address. Rather than being on a back street as expected, its main entrance actually fronted the R44 main coast road. With the sound of cars whooshing along this road, not quite our early morning cup of tea. The lie-in (after a long flight) didn't quite happen for us.

View 1 - False Bay

DAY TWO - VIEW TWO

Following the very same R44 road around the coast to Hermanus, the sun was out long enough for us to enjoy the spectacular scenery, before the weather turned bad and light rain turned to downpours.

As we arrived just east of Hermanus to visit Barbara and Vince it fairly clattered down...... and continued raining for the next 27 hours without stopping.

They took us to see the view from the Klein Rivier Mountains overlook, which wasn't very clear, much like the brief sight of whales from the windy deck of the Gecko pub were we took refuge and refreshments.

View 4 - River road

DAY THREE - VIEW THREE

All we saw today was rain. Lot's of it. (More on the weather front in part 2).

We did see Ally and Kurt though.

DAY FOUR - VIEW FOUR

After joining many of the locals venturing out to see the damage caused by the weather, we drove into Hermanus town and with Ally and Kurt meeting Barbara and Vince for the first time we all had lunch at Ocean Basket. Then driving with Barbara and Vince towards Caledon to collect their son, the road became a river and so impassable. (see pic).

DAY FIVE - VIEW FIVE

We had picked out a scenic route back to Cape Town, away from the coast. Heading north to Villiersdorp it was still early and in the sunshine we decided to venture on. Through Worcester to scenic route 62 we took the Bain's Kloof pass for more amazing views and twisty roads that fortunately were not very busy.

On to Paarl and the motorway that took us back to towards Cape Town and Kraaifontein, where Margaret's mother lives.

DAY SIX - VIEW SIX

The gardener was working in the garden when suddenly you couldn't see him for flying insects. (More on this in part 2).

Windy day but decided to take a look at Table View and Blouberg, where friends from England have a property. Great beach and ideal for kite surfing but the view of Table Mountain was fast fading in the increasing clouds. The Table had its tablecloth and soon disappeared completely. Drove back through the Durbanville Hills which was very nice.

DAY SEVEN - VIEW SEVEN

No views to speak of today. Unless you count the Cape Gate shopping mall.

DAY EIGHT - VIEW EIGHT

But we made up for yesterday, today. Went to Cape Point. (see picture, says it all).

Making our way to Muizenberg we took the coastal road around the Cape Peninsula, clock-wise. This allows you to be on the side of the road nearest the sea and therefore a better view of the scenery. This is one of the most spectacular drives in the world with breathtaking views around every corner. Also if you drive round clock-wise you leave the best till last, the icing on the cake, that is the final road around Chapman's Peak into Hout Bay. Only on this occasion we were denied this treat. The weekend rains had closed the road and we had to detour inland and back to Hout Bay. On a point of accuracy this isn't the end of the road as there is a final section from Hout Bay to Sea Point that skirts the Twelve Apostle mountain peaks on one side with the ocean right there on the other. This whole scenic drive you have to see to believe.

Spent the evening in Hout Bay with Yvonne and Anthony + friends, celebrating Yvonne's birthday.

DAY NINE - VIEW NINE

Went big game hunting with Margaret's mum, looking for Tyger Valley Shopping centre. Which apparently was so big you couldn't miss it, unless you was us! Crazy day, but at least we lived to tell the tale.

DAY TEN - VIEW TEN

Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens. Rated 4th best attraction in the Cape behind Table Mountain, the National Park and Cape of Good Hope. It was top of my list this time to see as we'd missed it last visit.

View 10 - Birds of Paradise (Strelitzia reginae)

It was worth the wait. There's so much to take in with the mind-boggling displays of plants, grasses and trees. Just amazing - all the different areas to walk around. The cycads were possibly my favourite, but then on another day it might be the proteas or primeval forest. Not to mention the sugarbush and sun birds darting everywhere and the numerous birds of paradise plants. Such variety was extraordinary, you really could go again and again.

And with a new tree top walkway about to open next year, I can't wait. See: www.sanbi.org/news/look-out-big-boomslang-kirstenbosch-summer

Met Margaret's friend Fiona and her boys Thomas and Adrian for lunch and then they guided us around the gardens they knew so well.

DAY ELEVEN - VIEW ELEVEN

A hot day in prospect (30c) so headed for the beach. Margaret's mum came along and we drove through the Durbanville Hills to Melkbosstrand and Blouberg. Had a paddle in the ocean and then went to the nice restaurant in Blouberg we had found the previous time. Very clear day and Table Mountain was looking its very best. (see pic below)

DAY TWELVE - VIEW TWELVE

Went to Hout Bay to nose around at some properties. Speculating! And why not at these prices.

Stopped off in Meadowridge as Margaret caught up with her friend Wendy. (See the lovely 'House & Garden' picture).

DAY THIRTEEN - VIEW THIRTEEN

In the mist and rain and not out of choice (having to return a few items) we went back to Tyger Valley Shopping mall and experienced, once again with Margaret's mum, the same tedium of finding the place a second time. No more, we vowed.

DAY FOURTEEN - VIEW FOURTEEN

Early start for Hout Bay. We had a plan but this all changed. (see part 2).

Spent the afternoon in Claremont with Natalie and Rob, Natalie's mum Nellie who is now living with them and joined by Lynne. Braai, drinks, music and partying in roughly that order.

DAY FIFTEEN - VIEW FIFTEEN

Relaxing day. Picked out a restaurant in Franschhoek for the evening but drove over there late afternoon. This proved a real find. Roca at the Dieu Donne Estate was off the main road just before you got into town. Up a side road we climbed. Ever upwards we doubted ourselves, but then a sign, a left turn across a bridge and there it was. As we entered the restaurant you could see the view. The whole of the Franschhoek valley spread out before you, it was simply stunning. We had 'sundowners' on the outside terrace before eating at our window table. It felt like a family christmas dinner treat. Happy Days.

You'd expect such fantastic surroundings to come at a price, and while it was above the average for South Africa, it seemed no more than London prices. Indeed I now have the credit card bill and with the favourable exchange rate we had drinks, starters and mains for three that cost us just £15 each. A gem of a place in an unforgettable setting.

DAY SIXTEEN - VIEW SIXTEEN

Last day. We returned to Hout Bay one more time. (more on this in part 2).

Had a quick drink with Lynne in the 'local' Woodcutters Arms, serving Cape Brewing Co. draft beer. Final drive back to Kraaifontein via that Twelve Apostle road, as the sun was setting. Physically and metaphorically on this holiday.

The much alluded to PART 2 of this intrepid tale of daring-do will follow soon on our 'tales' blog page.

View 5 - from Bain's Kloof pass

View 8 - from Cape Point

View 11 - Table mountain from Blouberg

View 12 - Wendy's House & Garden

View 15 - Roca restaurant, Franschhoek

1-2-3. At last we're Up, Up and Away!

Finally, after two postponements we actually made our long awaited Balloon Flight yesterday. 

Though naturally this wasn't without a few last minute changes to the plan before we got inflated and airborne. Briefly, 11.00pm phone call the night before to check if the flight was going ahead as planned, became, call again in the morning at 9am. The original meeting place was different and now 30 minutes further west of Henley and we had to be there for 11.00. On arrival at the Chiltern Park Aerodrome, it was full of parachutists waiting to chute. Our Virgin balloon team showed and instructed us to drive back towards Wallingford and a disused college playing field, from where we would launch.

Having assisted in laying out and inflating the enormous balloon we were no sooner in the basket as we were in the air. Just amazing.

The winds were very light and with a cloud base of just 1800 feet we drifted slowly above Wallingford and then more slowly eastwards. The first thing that struck me was how incredibly silent it was. Obviously the periodic whoosh of the balloon burner flame interrupted the calm, but in between it was almost surreal in the surrounding quiet, especially on those occasions we rose into the clouds and became enveloped in a white out.

But back to the smooth disquiet of drifting eastwards: down below you could see things moving but couldn't hear them (apart from a few motorcyclists that is). Our progress was leisurely as flat fields slowly became rolling hills as we followed the A4130 towards the Chilterns. Looking straight down, trees and shrubs were almost one dimensional, resembling the shapes of mere garden design plans. A car scrapyard looked just like a pile of kids toys. And to see the Red Kites flying from above, rather than the usual below, was just fantastic.

The distances we could see reduced in the hills and very gently we came back to earth. Our pilot opened the 'parachute valve' at the top of the balloon and down we came. Touching the ground once, for luck, before eventually landing on some common, somewhere just north of Nettlebed. 

River Thames, running north.

All hands to help fold up the balloon and squeeze it back into its impossibly small bag. Champagne and certificates and then all aboard a mini bus to take us back to our starting point and our cars. (Only about 7km away).

What a great trip. Very smooth (a car ride is more bumpy) and very safe. 

Just loved it !

Selection of aerial pictures follows:

Someone's modest back garden

Certificated proof !