Cape Town. 2013

Almost one year after being in South Africa we found ourselves there once again, primarily to see Margaret's mum and to catch up with her after her 80th birthday a few months previously.

Keep up more like. It was good to see, following eye problems earlier in the year, that she was her usual active self and as determined and independent as ever.

We were able to take her out as often as she wanted to join us. And in between we visited friends. Here's a view by day diary of where we went and who we saw during our 16 day stay. (see map, for those of you unfamiliar with the area, scroll down if you are).

DAY ONE - VIEW ONE

Cape Town is never short on fantastic views, as you will see here. After taking for the first time the long-haul route to South Africa - via Dubai - we arrived tired and ready for sleep. Luckily we were in our hire car and driving away from the airport within half an hour of landing. Our first night was booked at Gordon's Bay in a B&B that offered a clear panorama of the whole of False Bay. (see pic). The only problem being the slight misnomer of the hotel address. Rather than being on a back street as expected, its main entrance actually fronted the R44 main coast road. With the sound of cars whooshing along this road, not quite our early morning cup of tea. The lie-in (after a long flight) didn't quite happen for us.

View 1 - False Bay

DAY TWO - VIEW TWO

Following the very same R44 road around the coast to Hermanus, the sun was out long enough for us to enjoy the spectacular scenery, before the weather turned bad and light rain turned to downpours.

As we arrived just east of Hermanus to visit Barbara and Vince it fairly clattered down...... and continued raining for the next 27 hours without stopping.

They took us to see the view from the Klein Rivier Mountains overlook, which wasn't very clear, much like the brief sight of whales from the windy deck of the Gecko pub were we took refuge and refreshments.

View 4 - River road

DAY THREE - VIEW THREE

All we saw today was rain. Lot's of it. (More on the weather front in part 2).

We did see Ally and Kurt though.

DAY FOUR - VIEW FOUR

After joining many of the locals venturing out to see the damage caused by the weather, we drove into Hermanus town and with Ally and Kurt meeting Barbara and Vince for the first time we all had lunch at Ocean Basket. Then driving with Barbara and Vince towards Caledon to collect their son, the road became a river and so impassable. (see pic).

DAY FIVE - VIEW FIVE

We had picked out a scenic route back to Cape Town, away from the coast. Heading north to Villiersdorp it was still early and in the sunshine we decided to venture on. Through Worcester to scenic route 62 we took the Bain's Kloof pass for more amazing views and twisty roads that fortunately were not very busy.

On to Paarl and the motorway that took us back to towards Cape Town and Kraaifontein, where Margaret's mother lives.

DAY SIX - VIEW SIX

The gardener was working in the garden when suddenly you couldn't see him for flying insects. (More on this in part 2).

Windy day but decided to take a look at Table View and Blouberg, where friends from England have a property. Great beach and ideal for kite surfing but the view of Table Mountain was fast fading in the increasing clouds. The Table had its tablecloth and soon disappeared completely. Drove back through the Durbanville Hills which was very nice.

DAY SEVEN - VIEW SEVEN

No views to speak of today. Unless you count the Cape Gate shopping mall.

DAY EIGHT - VIEW EIGHT

But we made up for yesterday, today. Went to Cape Point. (see picture, says it all).

Making our way to Muizenberg we took the coastal road around the Cape Peninsula, clock-wise. This allows you to be on the side of the road nearest the sea and therefore a better view of the scenery. This is one of the most spectacular drives in the world with breathtaking views around every corner. Also if you drive round clock-wise you leave the best till last, the icing on the cake, that is the final road around Chapman's Peak into Hout Bay. Only on this occasion we were denied this treat. The weekend rains had closed the road and we had to detour inland and back to Hout Bay. On a point of accuracy this isn't the end of the road as there is a final section from Hout Bay to Sea Point that skirts the Twelve Apostle mountain peaks on one side with the ocean right there on the other. This whole scenic drive you have to see to believe.

Spent the evening in Hout Bay with Yvonne and Anthony + friends, celebrating Yvonne's birthday.

DAY NINE - VIEW NINE

Went big game hunting with Margaret's mum, looking for Tyger Valley Shopping centre. Which apparently was so big you couldn't miss it, unless you was us! Crazy day, but at least we lived to tell the tale.

DAY TEN - VIEW TEN

Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens. Rated 4th best attraction in the Cape behind Table Mountain, the National Park and Cape of Good Hope. It was top of my list this time to see as we'd missed it last visit.

View 10 - Birds of Paradise (Strelitzia reginae)

It was worth the wait. There's so much to take in with the mind-boggling displays of plants, grasses and trees. Just amazing - all the different areas to walk around. The cycads were possibly my favourite, but then on another day it might be the proteas or primeval forest. Not to mention the sugarbush and sun birds darting everywhere and the numerous birds of paradise plants. Such variety was extraordinary, you really could go again and again.

And with a new tree top walkway about to open next year, I can't wait. See: www.sanbi.org/news/look-out-big-boomslang-kirstenbosch-summer

Met Margaret's friend Fiona and her boys Thomas and Adrian for lunch and then they guided us around the gardens they knew so well.

DAY ELEVEN - VIEW ELEVEN

A hot day in prospect (30c) so headed for the beach. Margaret's mum came along and we drove through the Durbanville Hills to Melkbosstrand and Blouberg. Had a paddle in the ocean and then went to the nice restaurant in Blouberg we had found the previous time. Very clear day and Table Mountain was looking its very best. (see pic below)

DAY TWELVE - VIEW TWELVE

Went to Hout Bay to nose around at some properties. Speculating! And why not at these prices.

Stopped off in Meadowridge as Margaret caught up with her friend Wendy. (See the lovely 'House & Garden' picture).

DAY THIRTEEN - VIEW THIRTEEN

In the mist and rain and not out of choice (having to return a few items) we went back to Tyger Valley Shopping mall and experienced, once again with Margaret's mum, the same tedium of finding the place a second time. No more, we vowed.

DAY FOURTEEN - VIEW FOURTEEN

Early start for Hout Bay. We had a plan but this all changed. (see part 2).

Spent the afternoon in Claremont with Natalie and Rob, Natalie's mum Nellie who is now living with them and joined by Lynne. Braai, drinks, music and partying in roughly that order.

DAY FIFTEEN - VIEW FIFTEEN

Relaxing day. Picked out a restaurant in Franschhoek for the evening but drove over there late afternoon. This proved a real find. Roca at the Dieu Donne Estate was off the main road just before you got into town. Up a side road we climbed. Ever upwards we doubted ourselves, but then a sign, a left turn across a bridge and there it was. As we entered the restaurant you could see the view. The whole of the Franschhoek valley spread out before you, it was simply stunning. We had 'sundowners' on the outside terrace before eating at our window table. It felt like a family christmas dinner treat. Happy Days.

You'd expect such fantastic surroundings to come at a price, and while it was above the average for South Africa, it seemed no more than London prices. Indeed I now have the credit card bill and with the favourable exchange rate we had drinks, starters and mains for three that cost us just £15 each. A gem of a place in an unforgettable setting.

DAY SIXTEEN - VIEW SIXTEEN

Last day. We returned to Hout Bay one more time. (more on this in part 2).

Had a quick drink with Lynne in the 'local' Woodcutters Arms, serving Cape Brewing Co. draft beer. Final drive back to Kraaifontein via that Twelve Apostle road, as the sun was setting. Physically and metaphorically on this holiday.

The much alluded to PART 2 of this intrepid tale of daring-do will follow soon on our 'tales' blog page.

View 5 - from Bain's Kloof pass

View 8 - from Cape Point

View 11 - Table mountain from Blouberg

View 12 - Wendy's House & Garden

View 15 - Roca restaurant, Franschhoek

1-2-3. At last we're Up, Up and Away!

Finally, after two postponements we actually made our long awaited Balloon Flight yesterday. 

Though naturally this wasn't without a few last minute changes to the plan before we got inflated and airborne. Briefly, 11.00pm phone call the night before to check if the flight was going ahead as planned, became, call again in the morning at 9am. The original meeting place was different and now 30 minutes further west of Henley and we had to be there for 11.00. On arrival at the Chiltern Park Aerodrome, it was full of parachutists waiting to chute. Our Virgin balloon team showed and instructed us to drive back towards Wallingford and a disused college playing field, from where we would launch.

Having assisted in laying out and inflating the enormous balloon we were no sooner in the basket as we were in the air. Just amazing.

The winds were very light and with a cloud base of just 1800 feet we drifted slowly above Wallingford and then more slowly eastwards. The first thing that struck me was how incredibly silent it was. Obviously the periodic whoosh of the balloon burner flame interrupted the calm, but in between it was almost surreal in the surrounding quiet, especially on those occasions we rose into the clouds and became enveloped in a white out.

But back to the smooth disquiet of drifting eastwards: down below you could see things moving but couldn't hear them (apart from a few motorcyclists that is). Our progress was leisurely as flat fields slowly became rolling hills as we followed the A4130 towards the Chilterns. Looking straight down, trees and shrubs were almost one dimensional, resembling the shapes of mere garden design plans. A car scrapyard looked just like a pile of kids toys. And to see the Red Kites flying from above, rather than the usual below, was just fantastic.

The distances we could see reduced in the hills and very gently we came back to earth. Our pilot opened the 'parachute valve' at the top of the balloon and down we came. Touching the ground once, for luck, before eventually landing on some common, somewhere just north of Nettlebed. 

River Thames, running north.

All hands to help fold up the balloon and squeeze it back into its impossibly small bag. Champagne and certificates and then all aboard a mini bus to take us back to our starting point and our cars. (Only about 7km away).

What a great trip. Very smooth (a car ride is more bumpy) and very safe. 

Just loved it !

Selection of aerial pictures follows:

Someone's modest back garden

Certificated proof !

Sardinian Honeymoon

Sardinia. Second largest island in the Mediterranean (after Sicily). An autonomous region of Italy.

"Tell me something I don't know." I hear you say... ok then, how about:
Sardinia was called Ichnusa (the Latinised form of the Greek Hyknousa). 'Ichnusa' is now the local beer. There are around 7,000 nuraghi (an ancient megalithic edifice from 1900-730BC) scattered all over the island. And there's 1,849 km of coastline, mainly high and rocky with many outstanding headlands, with 67.9% of the island amusingly referred to as 'hilly'. As we would discover...

Honeymoon. We knew we wouldn't see that much of Sardinia due to its size. Once we discovered the 'hills' our horizons became even less far fetched as we only touched on the South West corner, around PULA (as marked on the map, right).

Villa Del Borgo*
An elegant hotel, our honeymoon retreat, just 3km south of Pula, proved a great choice and the junior suite tucked away from the main building with its private pool was idyllic. As luck would have it, being early season, we had the pool to ourselves for the first 4 days. Just us and all the song birds. Twittering sweet nothings... !

Pula
The nearby town of Pula revealed itself by degrees, on each visit we found something new and enjoyable. Its restaurants all offered the local speciality seafood pasta dishes of alla campidanese (spicy sausage and tomato) or alla bottarga (mullet roe - or fish eggs as the menu put it). The town grew on us which was nicely unexpected. While the beaches at Chia, just 15km south, are not to be missed. 

Chia
This is a beautiful part of not only Sardinia, but the world. Glorious white sandy beaches and inviting crystal seas that out of the main summer season are uncrowded and lovely.

Our favourite was near the Torre de Chia which provided shelter from the wind and on top of the fantastic views from the Tower there was a tiny beach bar. (See photos below) called Chiosco-Bar 'Su Portu'. 

We spent many an enjoyable end of the day accompanied by an ice cream or a beer listening to the excellent music the owner played. 

While this was one of the many lovely beaches in an area that offers more than just grains of passing sand, the drive around the coast and the scenery was breathtaking.

The first time we took the winding road it was unexpected, finding ourselves there without planning it. So the second time was full of expectation as we pulled off the main S195 sign-posted Chia, it said 26 km to Porto di Teulada. What it didn't say was prepare yourself for one of the most scenic drives ever. Twisting back and forth the road climbs and descends around the coastline in and out of hills covered in macchia shrubland (macchia is 'thicket' in English - which sounds far less attractive), these shrubs appear in so many colours in the spring it's just beautiful. Occasionally the view would open up as mountains and bays and beaches just stretched away into the distance.

You can't take your eye off the road for a second and maximum concentration is necessary. Far better to do the drive a second time, as we did.

Last night in Pula

* Our holiday was booked through Sardinian Places, part of Serenity Holidays. Included B&B accommodation, hire-car for the whole stay and flights from London Stansted to Cagliari. The rep met us at the airport and showed us the way to the hotel. Everything was very smooth and went without a hitch. It was just us that got hitched!

Torre de Chia - beach bar - Chiosco-Bar 'Su Portu'

View from the tower

Junior Suite 306 - with private pool

South Africa 2012 - Mpumalanga

"YOU TAKE THE HIGHVELD AND I'LL TAKE THE LOWVELD"

Leaving behind a cold and freezing London and landing in Johannesburg on December 8th for a two week holiday certainly took away the stress and the chill off the Christmas build up. For this alone it was a great, the trip that followed was even better.

Spending the first week in Witbank with Margaret's family, brother Gordon and his wife Mary-Ann, their son Ryan and her mother, who was visiting, was a good chance to catch up (and for me to know members of the family I had not previously met).

Family fun: 'Potjie' Night

It was relaxing, shorts and tee shirt weather, warm but not so sunny or too hot. We had a couple of spectacular rainstorms which turned the road behind the house into a river as cars sailed up and down it.
For our second week we hired a car and drove eastwards (see map). Further into the Highveld - an inland plateau at an altitude above 1500m (4920ft), but below 2100m (6900ft) - through the Drakensberg mountains (Panorama) down to the Lowveld and the Kruger National Park. Returning via Badplaas (to spend time with Gordon and Mary-Ann, now on holiday themselves) on route back to Jo'burg airport.

Approximately 1,000 km driven - though with side trips we did plenty more:-

DEC 16th: WITBANK to DULLSTROOM

Arriving in Dullstroom (fly-fishing country) around mid afternoon in sunshine and cloud. The areas changeable climate was demonstrated in full during our short stay.
We splashed out and stayed at the Critchley Hackle Lodge. Not cheap but very nice. Rooms had a log-fire and a big bath, a restaurant over looking the lake and delicious food. We recommend spoiling yourself occasionally.
This charming little town has hidden away at its northern end The Anvil Ale Brewery. We enjoyed some of their delights while watching the rain and mist descend from up above. The unusual 'Bookoo' Witbeer is not to be missed, if you ask me. See www.anvilbrewery.com for more information.

DEC 17th: DULLSTROOM to MARLOTH PARK

Note: Watch out for 'Bacardi' the cat, who 'breezed' into our room and made itself right at home and gave us quite a shock. Perhaps that's how it got its name ?

Leaving Dullstroom mid morning in more sunshine and cloud the drive on empty roads to Lydenburg and then along the Long Tom Pass was breathtaking. (When you could see.) I was driving the winding road as mist and thicker cloud swirled around us and as a consequence I needed to concentrate. Take your eye off the misty twisty drive for a second and it could be your last. It was fantastic and spectacular and I was glad we had not missed it, even if some of the scenery was hidden.

Somehow we never found the Sudwala Caves (which was our intention to visit) as we climbed down from the mountains into the tropical warmth of Nelspruit. Back on the N4 east, through an amazing mountain pass and on towards Marloth Park and the Kruger.

Our directions proved short on detail and aided by the confusing road signs we took totally the wrong road into Marloth Park. A suspension testing, axle jolting ride along a dirt track even four wheelers would have found a challenge. We managed to make the gate and the smoother road to the Bush Centre and eventually to Du Bois Lodge. Where we were informed of the error of our ways and made note to take the correct route (a new sealed road to the east of the park) next time.

Nick Du Bois (Margaret's sister-in-law's brother) welcomed us and showed us his beautiful lodge, where we would stay for 4 nights.

TOP TIP: Having inquired about taking malaria tablets and being told it was not really necessary, we took our own precautions in the shape of garlic pills and applying plenty of insect repellant with a further application of pre and during dinner gin and tonics. This proved a capital idea and much cheaper than prescription drugs and happily a more sociable form of medication.

DEC 18th: MARLOTH PARK (Panorama Day Tour)

The first of our booked trips took us back into the Drakensberg Mountains for a drive around the sites. Once away from the lowland we found the cloud and rain again, but the trip was very enjoyable, not least because of the lovely group of people we shared it with. Staying at our lodge were a family from Mozambique of Portuguese descent and a couple we'd had drinks with the evening before. It was quite a mix of personalities and accents speaking English, laughing in the language of your choice and listening to Nick's tour guiding while we all sat back and enjoyed the ride.

The scenery was often hidden by mist as Nick insisted Margaret had brought the Scottish weather with her.

Sabie, Graskop, Pilgrim's Rest, various waterfalls, the incredible Blyde River Canyon, the three Rondavels and Bourke's Luck Potholes meant we were in and out of our mini-bus seats all day long.

Blyde River Canyon, breathtaking backdrop

DEC 19th: MARLOTH PARK (Kruger Park Day Trip)

We also have a great video of this elephant

Another early start saw our Open Vehicle arrive on time and Kobus Spangenberg, our driver and fieldguide, introduce himself and our fellow day trippers, four Dutch people. Again English was the common language with Afrikaans making itself useful. In the morning chill we sped off to Crocodile Bridge Gate and into the Kruger Park for our full day tour.

Kobus was very knowledgeable and helpful, more than happy to answer all your questions and always taking time to stop, back up and look for any animal sightings, no matter what you thought you might have seen. Everyone wants to see the 'Big Five', we managed three, missing out on lion and leopard, but this was partly compensated by seeing cheetah cubs.

WARNING: Blatantly obvious caption alert. Zebra Crossing !

At one point we were allowed off the truck to walk a short distance to stand on a rock overlooking an area named 'Hippo Pool'. The expected inhabitants briefly obliged with eyes and ears but otherwise were rather shy.

The Kruger Park is roughly the size of Wales and we only touched on a small corner of it. Driving around is very easy as many of the roads are paved and apart from the side tracks a 4-wheel drive vehicle is not essential. This does increase the traffic, though we found plenty of peace and quite to view the animals without noise and disturbance. 

A great day and would highly recommend Kobus as an excellent personal tour guide. Cost ZAR750 (app. £55). See more info at www.krugerafricasafaris.co.za

DEC 20th: MARLOTH PARK to MAPUTO (Mozambique)

Having set our hearts on going to Mozambique the news of the cost for a day visitor visa was not enough to put us off. Though at 684 rand there would be many that would say no thank you, to that rip-off.

Up and on the road early on the instruction of Nick that the border crossing could take some time was the advice of a seasoned travel warrior. Despite his attempts to organise them, and Nick wasn't scared to try, the border bureaucracy was intense. Without Nick I think we may have been there all day trying to work out which queue to join and then where to go next. In the event we got through in about two hours but not without amazement at such chaos and of course our pockets a lot lighter of rands.

View from restaurant

That said the trip was great. Nick showing us the sights of Maputo and give us an insight into the old and new of the capitial city. The remarkable Polana Hotel, the craft market followed by a nice lunch overlooking the disappointingly rubbish littered beach were typical contrasts in a fast developing and recovering city.

We shared the return journey with a large group returning from their weeks holiday in Mozambique to Komatiepoort. Along with the additional crowded fun and games and more passport stamps at the Lebombo border.

Hotel Polana. Luxury at $400 a night.

DEC 21st: MARLOTH PARK to BADPLAAS

Ryan on Rinkles ride

Our return journey west allowed us to meet up with Gordon and Mary-Ann and Ryan at the Forever resort in Badplaas. 

Quiet a contrast to the peace and quite of the so called 'Wild Frontier' in the Kruger. This was just wild. Hot pools, splash pools, water slides, it reminded me of an outdoor 'Center Parcs'. Loads to do for kids of all ages.

Camping, chalets and a hotel. Excellent security. Along with a supermarket, shops and restaurants all on site.

On the drive we had past through Barberton on a scenic traffic free road through the mountains, another memorable and spectacular drive. 

A simply beautiful part of the world. 
"From the high road to the low, to sea level and back again."

When can we go again ?