South Africa 2012 - Mpumalanga

"YOU TAKE THE HIGHVELD AND I'LL TAKE THE LOWVELD"

Leaving behind a cold and freezing London and landing in Johannesburg on December 8th for a two week holiday certainly took away the stress and the chill off the Christmas build up. For this alone it was a great, the trip that followed was even better.

Spending the first week in Witbank with Margaret's family, brother Gordon and his wife Mary-Ann, their son Ryan and her mother, who was visiting, was a good chance to catch up (and for me to know members of the family I had not previously met).

Family fun: 'Potjie' Night

It was relaxing, shorts and tee shirt weather, warm but not so sunny or too hot. We had a couple of spectacular rainstorms which turned the road behind the house into a river as cars sailed up and down it.
For our second week we hired a car and drove eastwards (see map). Further into the Highveld - an inland plateau at an altitude above 1500m (4920ft), but below 2100m (6900ft) - through the Drakensberg mountains (Panorama) down to the Lowveld and the Kruger National Park. Returning via Badplaas (to spend time with Gordon and Mary-Ann, now on holiday themselves) on route back to Jo'burg airport.

Approximately 1,000 km driven - though with side trips we did plenty more:-

DEC 16th: WITBANK to DULLSTROOM

Arriving in Dullstroom (fly-fishing country) around mid afternoon in sunshine and cloud. The areas changeable climate was demonstrated in full during our short stay.
We splashed out and stayed at the Critchley Hackle Lodge. Not cheap but very nice. Rooms had a log-fire and a big bath, a restaurant over looking the lake and delicious food. We recommend spoiling yourself occasionally.
This charming little town has hidden away at its northern end The Anvil Ale Brewery. We enjoyed some of their delights while watching the rain and mist descend from up above. The unusual 'Bookoo' Witbeer is not to be missed, if you ask me. See www.anvilbrewery.com for more information.

DEC 17th: DULLSTROOM to MARLOTH PARK

Note: Watch out for 'Bacardi' the cat, who 'breezed' into our room and made itself right at home and gave us quite a shock. Perhaps that's how it got its name ?

Leaving Dullstroom mid morning in more sunshine and cloud the drive on empty roads to Lydenburg and then along the Long Tom Pass was breathtaking. (When you could see.) I was driving the winding road as mist and thicker cloud swirled around us and as a consequence I needed to concentrate. Take your eye off the misty twisty drive for a second and it could be your last. It was fantastic and spectacular and I was glad we had not missed it, even if some of the scenery was hidden.

Somehow we never found the Sudwala Caves (which was our intention to visit) as we climbed down from the mountains into the tropical warmth of Nelspruit. Back on the N4 east, through an amazing mountain pass and on towards Marloth Park and the Kruger.

Our directions proved short on detail and aided by the confusing road signs we took totally the wrong road into Marloth Park. A suspension testing, axle jolting ride along a dirt track even four wheelers would have found a challenge. We managed to make the gate and the smoother road to the Bush Centre and eventually to Du Bois Lodge. Where we were informed of the error of our ways and made note to take the correct route (a new sealed road to the east of the park) next time.

Nick Du Bois (Margaret's sister-in-law's brother) welcomed us and showed us his beautiful lodge, where we would stay for 4 nights.

TOP TIP: Having inquired about taking malaria tablets and being told it was not really necessary, we took our own precautions in the shape of garlic pills and applying plenty of insect repellant with a further application of pre and during dinner gin and tonics. This proved a capital idea and much cheaper than prescription drugs and happily a more sociable form of medication.

DEC 18th: MARLOTH PARK (Panorama Day Tour)

The first of our booked trips took us back into the Drakensberg Mountains for a drive around the sites. Once away from the lowland we found the cloud and rain again, but the trip was very enjoyable, not least because of the lovely group of people we shared it with. Staying at our lodge were a family from Mozambique of Portuguese descent and a couple we'd had drinks with the evening before. It was quite a mix of personalities and accents speaking English, laughing in the language of your choice and listening to Nick's tour guiding while we all sat back and enjoyed the ride.

The scenery was often hidden by mist as Nick insisted Margaret had brought the Scottish weather with her.

Sabie, Graskop, Pilgrim's Rest, various waterfalls, the incredible Blyde River Canyon, the three Rondavels and Bourke's Luck Potholes meant we were in and out of our mini-bus seats all day long.

Blyde River Canyon, breathtaking backdrop

DEC 19th: MARLOTH PARK (Kruger Park Day Trip)

We also have a great video of this elephant

Another early start saw our Open Vehicle arrive on time and Kobus Spangenberg, our driver and fieldguide, introduce himself and our fellow day trippers, four Dutch people. Again English was the common language with Afrikaans making itself useful. In the morning chill we sped off to Crocodile Bridge Gate and into the Kruger Park for our full day tour.

Kobus was very knowledgeable and helpful, more than happy to answer all your questions and always taking time to stop, back up and look for any animal sightings, no matter what you thought you might have seen. Everyone wants to see the 'Big Five', we managed three, missing out on lion and leopard, but this was partly compensated by seeing cheetah cubs.

WARNING: Blatantly obvious caption alert. Zebra Crossing !

At one point we were allowed off the truck to walk a short distance to stand on a rock overlooking an area named 'Hippo Pool'. The expected inhabitants briefly obliged with eyes and ears but otherwise were rather shy.

The Kruger Park is roughly the size of Wales and we only touched on a small corner of it. Driving around is very easy as many of the roads are paved and apart from the side tracks a 4-wheel drive vehicle is not essential. This does increase the traffic, though we found plenty of peace and quite to view the animals without noise and disturbance. 

A great day and would highly recommend Kobus as an excellent personal tour guide. Cost ZAR750 (app. £55). See more info at www.krugerafricasafaris.co.za

DEC 20th: MARLOTH PARK to MAPUTO (Mozambique)

Having set our hearts on going to Mozambique the news of the cost for a day visitor visa was not enough to put us off. Though at 684 rand there would be many that would say no thank you, to that rip-off.

Up and on the road early on the instruction of Nick that the border crossing could take some time was the advice of a seasoned travel warrior. Despite his attempts to organise them, and Nick wasn't scared to try, the border bureaucracy was intense. Without Nick I think we may have been there all day trying to work out which queue to join and then where to go next. In the event we got through in about two hours but not without amazement at such chaos and of course our pockets a lot lighter of rands.

View from restaurant

That said the trip was great. Nick showing us the sights of Maputo and give us an insight into the old and new of the capitial city. The remarkable Polana Hotel, the craft market followed by a nice lunch overlooking the disappointingly rubbish littered beach were typical contrasts in a fast developing and recovering city.

We shared the return journey with a large group returning from their weeks holiday in Mozambique to Komatiepoort. Along with the additional crowded fun and games and more passport stamps at the Lebombo border.

Hotel Polana. Luxury at $400 a night.

DEC 21st: MARLOTH PARK to BADPLAAS

Ryan on Rinkles ride

Our return journey west allowed us to meet up with Gordon and Mary-Ann and Ryan at the Forever resort in Badplaas. 

Quiet a contrast to the peace and quite of the so called 'Wild Frontier' in the Kruger. This was just wild. Hot pools, splash pools, water slides, it reminded me of an outdoor 'Center Parcs'. Loads to do for kids of all ages.

Camping, chalets and a hotel. Excellent security. Along with a supermarket, shops and restaurants all on site.

On the drive we had past through Barberton on a scenic traffic free road through the mountains, another memorable and spectacular drive. 

A simply beautiful part of the world. 
"From the high road to the low, to sea level and back again."

When can we go again ?