Vietnam: March 2016

Having grown up in the Sixties to a background of news broadcasts reporting on the Vietnam War, places like Saigon, Danang, Hanoi and mention of Viet Cong forces, U.S. marines, strategic bombing and Ho Chi Minh became familiar phrases. As the decade closed, anti-war demonstrations and songs increased and in 1973 America withdrew, with the war ending in 1975. Further disruption followed in Indo-China with war between Vietnam, Cambodia and China leading to large numbers of Vietnamese fleeing the country as millions of refugee 'boat people' took to the sea as means of escape.
As a consequence I never remotely believed I'd visit Vietnam in my lifetime. 
But time passes quickly and by the mid 1990s tourists began visiting Vietnam and since then in increasing numbers. A 2001 trade agreement with the U.S. was significant and now it seems the 'Resistance War against America' is long ago. They even price goods in shops in U.S. dollars, for the convenience of visitors.

Ever since returning from our visit I've been trying to concisely sum up Vietnam. It was extraordinary and an amazing trip, but summing it up, impossible! So I've gone for a selection of panels about certain aspects hoping to capture some of the flavour of the country, or at least the parts we saw: Which went as follows -

Good Morning Vietnam - HANOI 

The traffic, the people, the activity, the smells, the language all too much for our brains affected by a long flight. My mind racing, no time to recover normal service. Buzzing to a barrage of vehicle horns. An assault on the senses. 

Overwhelming at first, our introduction to Vietnam was to be guided by my son Scott and his girlfriend Issie (who've been living in Hanoi since last April and a visit to see them had long been planned) on what to do, where to go and how to go about it. This resulted in taking most of the guess work out and made for an action packed holiday.
Hanoi is in the North, a long way from the South and Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon). See map I made overlaying Vietnam on the UK. 

We spent three days in Hanoi before flying 330 miles down to Danang to spend time in what we hoped would be a warmer and sunnier part of the country.

Xin Chào - HOI AN

A short distance from Danang is the beautiful traditional town of Hoi An, where we spent a few days unwinding in the calmer surroundings of the Hoai River, An Hoi island, An Bang beach and the wonderful ancient town of Hoi An. We cycled through rice fields and dined on fresh mango and shrimp spring rolls. Visited a village for the almost obligatory cooking lesson and just wandered around the enchanting town, which at night took on a whole new atmosphere with lanterns and gently piped music along its streets. Not to mention shopping (and haggling) for jackets. Which I'm not going to mention, but will reveal all, if asked. 

Hoi An was great and we loved it but the journey from there to Hue was something special.

Le Family Riders - BIKE RIDE

I could probably write a whole blog entry, all of its very own and separate from here, just about this fantastic trip. In fact that's what I'm going to do. See this link http://mandbtales1.blogspot.co.uk/2016/04/bike-ride.html - and other map, as indicated above on main map.

Hi - HUE

This was the briefest of visits. Arrived 5.30pm by motorbike, enjoyed the hospitality of our hotel, walked to the Perfume River, couple of drinks and checked out for a 10.30 flight the next morning. The hotel desk clerk had insisted we not miss the Citadel and if we'd known would have planned to spend longer in Hue. As it turned out we had an hour of sightseeing and just as the day was warming up nicely and the sky was turning blue, we flew back north into clouds.

HALONG BAY

After an afternoon and evening back in Hanoi, we were up bright and early for our 3 days/2 nights trip to Halong Bay. Just three hours by bus we then transferred to a boat for a cruise through the bay and some of the thousands of limestone karats and islands that make up this UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the New 7 Wonders of the World. Unfortunately Margaret was not feeling well and missed most of the first day but recovered for the second half spent overnight at an island resort.
This would have been very nice and relaxing if some sun had made it as idyllic as it sounded in the travel blurb at the time of booking. The weather wasn't cold but the resort was fairly basic and there wasn't much to do or a lot to discover without a boat or kayak. We choose the latter and in the low tide waters, lets just say, it proved less than a leisurely paddle. (Details upon request, if you have not already heard the story).
Travelling back the final day the mist seemed even thicker and the shadowy mystery of the scenery more remarkable. I have seen postcards of Halong Bay with blue skies and sunsets, but mostly it appears cloaked in cloud and without sounded too cryptic, perhaps that is how it is and why it is. 
Amazing place. Very popular though, lets hope it doesn't get spoilt by tourism as there were signs of this already.

Click the titles here for our videos on YouTube:  Road Crossing - Old Hanoi street shops - Taking the traffic - each one presents a different angle.

Chào buôi sang - HANOI

Back in Hanoi we settled for the last five days. Catching up with Scott and Issie and generally taking it easy after all the rushing about. Having given up on the weather totally we just went with the flow of overcast skies, misty drizzle, hazy humidity and wearing warmer clothes. The shorts would remain unworn and the sun cream unrequired.

We got to drink coffee to our hearts content (see above), cycle around the big lake 'Ho Tay', visit the Hanoi Hilton (Hoa Lo Prison), go up the Lotte Tower for a fantastic 360 view of Hanoi, wrapped in complementary blankets while drinking cold beer, sample Pho cocktails, have a massage and become semi hooked on Banh Mi (Vietnam's sandwich par excellence). 
The city was still crazy but we enjoyed it and our hotel provided an escape route to calm the nerves, charge the batteries and head out for further adventures of M&B in Vietnam.

Selfie with Ho Chi Minh photobombing us
(he died in 1969, that's his mausoleum in the background)

I've not really mentioned the Vietnamese people, who were very welcoming, hard working and enterprising, always helpful and fun. This may best be demonstrated with more pictures - which will appear in a second blog > coming very soon.