mandb trips: Northern Lights

As the plane descended over the arctic tundra you sensed you were entering a very different world far more colourful than the black and white scene emerging through the window. Forests of pine and dwarf birch divided by areas and ribbons of pure white, stretching in all directions. A land of lakes and rivers frozen solid and topped with snow.

This Northern Lights Tour took us 350km (217 miles) inside the arctic circle to the tiny town of Karesuando which borders Sweden with Finland. It's been called a one-elk town and those of us seeking the Northern Lights - Glow Getters ! But would we see the magic in the sky of the Aurora Borealis ? The forecast was for cloudy skies and temperatures nowhere near as cold as we'd packed for or anticipated.

What we did know was that our trip included a Snowshoe trek, an evening Forest Trek, Snowmobile safari, Reindeer camp and a Husky ride - when these were taking place was the first thing we found out on arrival at the Arctic Star Hotel. Our day-to-day planner all mapped out and everybody supplied with thermal suits and boots, the fun was about to start. See Map here

Day One: Snowshoe Introduction & Forest Trek
After being shown how to put the Snowshoes on off we all wandered across the frozen lake and through the forest and back again. A nice leisurely morning stroll in Lapland.
With the afternoon free we walked into town to see the church and then made our way over the meter thick ice of the River Muorio into Finland, just in time to find the Lapland Shop closed. Somewhat confusing Finland was one hour ahead of Sweden. As most of the activities took place in Finland we were working on their time despite actually staying in Sweden.
The Forest Trek in the evening was up and away into the forest behind the Davvi Arctic Lodge - the other accommodation used by our travel company. The snow was falling lightly, which was picturesque and atmospheric but stopped any chance of the Northern Lights joining us.

Day Two: Call of the Wild - Husky Safari
An early morning drive of 20km into Finland, the overnight snow provided a fresh backdrop for the Husky ride. We had a briefing on how to operate the sledge with vital information on how to slow the dogs down with the two types of braking system. All set, off we went in a flurry of activity and bodily functions, our team of five huskies kicking up quite a stink, that wafted our way. It was bouncy and at times a bit 'white-knuckle', but wonderful. We switched drivers and passengers mid-way and as our video proves I thought I'd lost Margaret, off the back, at one point. See here: https://youtu.be/mHjb6JxxKBQ
The rest of our day was our own and we visited the local museum up the road from the hotel.
The sun had appeared briefly at lunchtime, but for the rest of the day the skies remained firmly overcast and grey. Margaret found a website: http://www.aurora-service.eu and spent ages charting the possibilities of us seeing the Lights tomorrow - which would be our last night and final opportunity. (We're talking kp2 here!)

Day Three: Reindeer Camp & Northern Lights Snowmobile Safari
With nothing planned until the afternoon we wandered into town to the two shops that sold 'everything you could possibly want' before walking across the river past a snowmobile fisherman with a drill-bit, fishing through the ice. Finally visited the shop in Finland before heading back for lunch.
On the drive to the Reindeer camp the snow began falling, but soon stopped and the clouds broke up and gloriously the sun shone. Beautiful slow reindeer sleigh ride along the river as we all hoped the clear skies would last into the night.
Reindeer video - this one is like watching 'slow TV': https://youtu.be/uLpun5rfmCw

The Snowmobile safari began around 8pm. Another important briefing on how to drive these machines and a reassuring message that their speed limiter had been switched on. It was fast, bumpy and exhilarating but not too accelerating, as we buzzed off down the river in darkness, the snowmobile steering us rather than the other way around. At the half-way stage we stopped for a breather and a glass of 'glogi' and a bit of star gazing. And then it started. Bands of light slowly spread across the northern sky and began changing their shape. Green light was pulsing and dancing in the night sky. We had to get back on the snowmobiles but the Northern Lights didn't care they continued their display for the return journey swirling and twisting great green shapes above us. On our final night, you couldn't have scripted it better.
By 10pm the show was over but rather than think to myself 'right, I've seen them now', I knew I wanted to see them again.

Day Four: Ice Hotel Visit
This was an optional extra excursion. Not cheap - in fact it was expensive - but we were glad we did it.
Icehotel 27 (the 27th time it has been built before melting and sliding back into the Torne River every Spring) is situated in Jukkasjarvi near Kiruna and the airport.
Our final hours in Lapland were spent in the sunshine and -5c of the Ice rooms - variously themed and beautifully sculptured it was quite something.

Glossary:
kp2 - refers to the kp index. A scale 0 to 9 used to indicate the level needed to view the Northern Lights.
glögi - is a warm Finnish drink similar to mulled wine - with blueberries and not much wine.

Photo Gallery: A selection