S.E. Asia

As this adventure was more than a holiday I'm going to try a different approach. With nearly 2,000 pictures and videos taken (plus at least 5,200km travelled) there's a lot to get through. It seemed sensible, rather than having one enormous long blog to scroll through, that this intro should provide links (click on the blue type below) to the various parts, so you can take your pick and travel at your own speed.

Part 1: Thailand (Lang Suan: Dog Sitting - Kanchanaburi - Bangkok) 
Part 2: Vietnam (Danang: Storm Damray - Ninh Binh - Hanoi - Sapa) 
Part 3: Cambodia (Siem Reap: Angkor Wat - Boat Trip - Battambang) 
The overall map above shows the parts that will become larger more informative maps when you get to that section. 

4. Photo Gallery
5. Videos & Lots of Links

1. THAILAND

A visit split in two. The Dogs and Kanchanaburi, bookended by Bangkok.

The Dogs
'Getting away from it all' could best sum up our 12 days spent minding our friend's 7 (seven) dogs in Lang Suan. We had visited previously and roughly knew what we were letting ourselves in for, but it was a very different routine. Basically getting up at 5.30am to prepare food, then walk the dogs along the beach. Back to feed them while making sure we hadn't lost anyone along the way. Repeat the process late afternoon and fall asleep by 9pm. An afternoon 'siesta' was perfectly in order, so as the dogs slept, so did we. 
The change of lifestyle also included 'going' vegetarian, drinking coconut water and having no internet for 9 days. No TV also, so no news, while the sound of mobile phones ringing was not missed at all. It wasn't all peace and quiet though, due to next door's rooster and the occasional dog barking at some passing animal plus the evenings had the full orchestra of frogs and cicadas playing in the garden. It was idyllic and the slow pace wonderful and we really enjoyed all the dogs and their funny ways and different characters.
We had taken over the minding from Birgit who had lovingly cared for them for two weeks. Housekeepers Chu and Te Win had been around to assist us also. When our friends Colin and Kyoko returned we spent four days catching up and then catching our breath as the NE winds blew in and the bay and beach became a wilder place for a time.

Beach walking: (left to right) Pink, Beer, Margaret, Gogo, Chu, Chip, Psy and Nut.

Having hatched a cunning plan to not return on the train all the way to Bangkok, but overnight in Nakhon Pathom, we arrived in the middle of some local festival (the Buddhist Phra Pathommachedi Festival) and on leaving the next day managed to jump on the wrong train. Briefly finding ourselves travelling back to Lang Suan until being advised by our fellow passengers to change at Nong Pladuk Junction to the correct train for Kanchanaburi. This diversion proved interesting as Nong Pladuk was the starting station for the Thai-Burma Railway in 1942 and was full of interesting old equipment.

Kanchanaburi

Krathongs at the ready. (Eiad, 2nd left)

Loy Krathong - festival of lights - was taking place while we were here and while rather low-key due the recent cremation of Thailand's beloved King Bhumibol we were lucky enough to be invited to join in by our guesthouse owner Eiad, who spoke perfect English having lived in Oxford for many years, and who made us our own Krathong to float on the river.

The main reason for our visit was to see the Bridge over the River Kwai, experience Hellfire Pass and ride the train from Namtok to Kanchanaburi via the Wampo Viaduct. The excellent memorial and walk through Hellfire Pass along the actual cuttings made by the POWs and Asian labourers in building the Death Railway was sobering and moving. 
The train journey was very popular and we inadvertently sat on the wrong side of the train and missed the best views. TIP: Sit on the West side is best.
Another day was spent clambering up the Erawan Falls, which rise some seven levels in spectacular fashion and are very busy on a weekend. (Entrance fee to the park was only 100 baht (£2.25), but a more blatant 300 baht for foreigners). 

The excellent Blue-Jeans band

A final evening in Kanchanaburi was had in the Blue-Jeans bar listening to a Thai band play western rock music, really rather well.




….And then


Our final days in Thailand included weather watching as news of a major storm reached us heading straight for where we were heading in Vietnam.  >>> cont. here

2. VIETNAM

We had a nice plan for Vietnam. 
All neatly mapped out from meeting my son Scott and his girlfriend Issie in Danang and spending time with them in Hoi An and Hue. Then two days before we arrived Tropical storm Damray barged in ahead of us and washed the plans away. It was apparent we were not only going to need a Plan B, but an on-going adjustment to a C, D & possibly an E.

As it turned out the first day employed all options as we saw pictures of flooded cities and splashed our way around Danang, that wasn't flooded but was pretty wet under foot.
Day two we escaped northwards rather slowly on delayed trains due to this bad weather. Just managed to see the scenic Hai Van pass, before it got dark, as the train wound around the coastline. Continuing on the (not very) 'soft sleeper' train overnight to Ninh Binh, which was thankfully dry and we settled for a few days' rest surrounded by the wonderful scenery of area. Like Halong Bay on land best describes the fantastic landscape.

The remarkable Bai Dinh temple, the climb up Hang Mua and the river trips were highlights as was our accommodation in bungalows right beside the river.
On our arrival in Hanoi, the traffic seemed more chaotic than on our previous visit 18 months ago. Getting around was a constant battle with cars, bikes and other street obstructions. The madness of the city was amusing on our first visit, now it wasn't quite so funny. So, we headed for the hills. 

Sapa
Another sleeper train 300km north to the border town of Lao Cai and a mini-bus ride up to the town of Sapa nestled beneath Vietnam's highest mountain Fansipan. A beautiful mountain village or building site? Both! But the three days of blue skies and incredible views were unforgettable, with a 13km guided trek into the valley, through three hill tribe villages and the Ham Rong Mountain Park with its overlook, not to be missed. Dancing in the town square provided some unexpected entertainment. (see video No.6 >)

Sapa Lake and highest mountain 'Fansipan' just right of centre at the top.

'Linear Hanoi'. Two city landscape views.

Back to Hanoi, travelling on the very comfortable sleeper bus, for a final few days with Scott and Issie. Our hotel choice wasn't the best, but a demonstration on how to make egg coffee at a local cafe was a bonus, as was watching the football with Scott and riding on his motorbike back to the hotel at midnight through the Hanoi traffic. 

It was now getting noticeably colder and our final adventure beckoned … as we flew to Cambodia >>>

3. CAMBODIA

The final part of the trip oddly enough was the big adventure, the unknown, all saved for the last week ! 

Siem Reap (Angkor Wat) 
We'd been warned that everything in Cambodia was priced in American dollars, which was crazy. As a result Siem Reap was a little like the Wild West with saloons (bars), traders (shops), dollar signs and cheap booze and a posse of men on the streets riding tuk tuks !
Having orientated ourselves on day one the next three days allowed us to visit Angkor Archaeological Park and see the extraordinary temples.
After battling the crowds of tour buses at the main Angkor Wat temple we hired bikes for days 2 and 3 which enabled us to go where we wanted at our own pace. The larger site of Angkor Thom, the trees at Ta Prohm, the discovery of Neak Pean island and the ruins of Preah Khan all utterly amazing in their different ways. I've stolen a map off the web to show these places within the park, otherwise they're just names.

Angkor Wat                  

The jungle, especially its strangler figs and the scenery and sounds of the area was incredible. We have so many pictures - some here, some there…

Strangler fig tree at Preah Khan temple.

Then the boat trip to Battambang was another interesting hair raising experience - see the videos 9 & 10 >> and read the story

Battambang
This was a nice contrast to the tourist town of Siem Reap.  
Sadly the main attraction - the bamboo railway - had closed just the month before, but we passed the time at our lovely hotel with its relaxing pool area and just wandered around town. Margaret even managed to head-butt a street sign, which slowed her up and dented her forehead but it didn't stop her doing a 25 km bike ride on a dusty main road, not good for cycling, to Phnom Sampov temple even with the bike breaking down on the way back.

Taking the bus back to Bangkok through the border town of Poipet confirmed what I felt, that Cambodia reminded me of Thailand 30 years ago. Once across the border, today's Thailand is more modern and prosperous. Bangkok, a flash 21st century city of bright lights and culture clash.

–  THE END  –

There's more though:
See Photo Gallery 
and Video links >

Photo GALLERY

Some of the many photos we took - appearing in something like chronological order.

LANG SUAN
(Left) is one of many crazy pieces of art scattered around Colin & Kyoko's amazing garden. This a 'dog' pole featuring (from the top) Gogo, Nut, Nah, Beer, Psy and Sticky (now sadly past on).



















Photos below: 
A windy beach shot, compared to the view of a calm beach in the Gogo shot beneath it.

Gogo and a nice calm beach.

Margaret with Psy and Pink, with Chip hiding behind her.

Sunrise. This was the only sunrise worthy of the name over 11 mornings !

The Wrong Train (at Nakhon Pathom) - then the Right Train (at Pladuk Junction) to Kanchanaburi.

VIETNAM

Coffee morning in Danang, with Issie and Scott, Megan and Joe.

Four go cycling around Ninh Binh.

River views at our accommodation. Tam Coc Bungalows. 

NINH BINH

The zig-zag walk up to the top of Hang Mua (left). 

Below are shots of Bill photographing Scott. 

Scott photographing Bill and the view we were after.

Hang Mua. Ninh Binh.

Team photo. At the Tamcoc Nature resort.

Lake reflection. Sapa.

Hike through Sapa Valley.

Rice terraces in Sapa Valley.

A fabulous 13 km hike throughout the Sapa Valley produced a lot of photos. Here's one of us and some more below.
(See also short video No.8 >).

Appropriately named Cafe in the Clouds, Sapa.

CAMBODIA

Angkor Wat has undergone a lot of renovation. To the left is a fresco before and on the right is after.

In the land of giant trees. 

Walkway to Neak Pean island temple. Angkor Park.

CAMBODIA
(Right) is our bicycle repair man who dismantled our broken bike into many pieces and half an hour later put it back together in perfect working order. Cost? Less than one £1!

TRAVELLING LIGHT.
This was our luggage for the whole trip.
Two suitcases, combined weight only 25kgs and two small rucksacks.

Last but not least: Very colourful toilet stop in Cambodia, on the road back to Thailand.

VIDEOS & Lots of Links

Links to various videos posted on YouTube. None are terribly long.

THAILAND >
1. Guest House tour - Around the house at Colin & Kyoko's. (longest video: under 2 minutes)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BC-Oc_UGIvQ&feature=youtu.be

2. Changing Train engines at Wang Yen station. Railway trip Namtok - Kanchanaburi.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qrAJVbRcCXY&feature=youtu.be

3. "Doesn't matter / does matter" !  Wampo Viaduct. Video on board the train trip where we sat on the wrong side of the carriage.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eG20ca216BU&feature=youtu.be

4. Bangkok Lizard in Lumpini Park. Very short video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZqsIAQWPChA&feature=youtu.be

VIETNAM >
5. Ninh Binh: Van Long Wetland Reserve - scenic boat ride with very chatty rowing lady
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z6XPYTPITLs&feature=youtu.be

6. "Strictly Sapa" - dancing in the town square in Sapa.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xJcc_xu7lNM&feature=youtu.be

7. Traditional Dancing in Sapa at Ham Rong Mountain Park.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mf_SpETHm7E&feature=youtu.be

8. Sapa Valley hike - short pan through valley
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mj104FTT88I&feature=youtu.be

CAMBODIA >
9. Boat to Battambang 1 - across the vegetation - nuts !
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HsJFnrxx-Yg&feature=youtu.be

10. Boat to Battambang 2 - through the vegetation channels
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kXwXLhJ4Skw&feature=youtu.be

Links to other things

Websites > 
man in seat 61 (everything trains related). https://www.seat61.com/Map-southeast-asia-train-routes.htm

Best for maps > Maps.me > is a mobile app for Android, iOS and BlackBerry that provides offline maps using OpenStreetMap data. 
This was invaluable. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maps.me

Travel Sites:
Emirates (London to Bangkok). Air Asia (to Danang). VietJet Air (Hanoi to Cambodia) & Mekong Express (bus back to Bangkok).

Music to listen to: If you missed these musical interludes click below
Thailand > http://billblogs2.blogspot.co.uk/2017/10/week-one-take-off-to-thailand.html
Vietnam > http://billblogs2.blogspot.co.uk/2017/11/and-this-weeks-sees-us-up-up-and-away.html
Cambodia > http://billblogs2.blogspot.co.uk/2017/11/another-week-and-time-for-siem-reap-in.html

Final Soundbites

You made it to the end:
Martini time – any place, anywhere, anytime !