All neatly mapped out from meeting my son Scott and his girlfriend Issie in Danang and spending time with them in Hoi An and Hue. Then two days before we arrived Tropical storm Damray barged in ahead of us and washed the plans away. It was apparent we were not only going to need a Plan B, but an on-going adjustment to a C, D & possibly an E.
As it turned out the first day employed all options as we saw pictures of flooded cities and splashed our way around Danang, that wasn't flooded but was pretty wet under foot.
Day two we escaped northwards rather slowly on delayed trains due to this bad weather. Just managed to see the scenic Hai Van pass, before it got dark, as the train wound around the coastline. Continuing on the (not very) 'soft sleeper' train overnight to Ninh Binh, which was thankfully dry and we settled for a few days' rest surrounded by the wonderful scenery of area. Like Halong Bay on land best describes the fantastic landscape.
The remarkable Bai Dinh temple, the climb up Hang Mua and the river trips were highlights as was our accommodation in bungalows right beside the river.
On our arrival in Hanoi, the traffic seemed more chaotic than on our previous visit 18 months ago. Getting around was a constant battle with cars, bikes and other street obstructions. The madness of the city was amusing on our first visit, now it wasn't quite so funny. So, we headed for the hills.
Sapa
Another sleeper train 300km north to the border town of Lao Cai and a mini-bus ride up to the town of Sapa nestled beneath Vietnam's highest mountain Fansipan. A beautiful mountain village or building site? Both! But the three days of blue skies and incredible views were unforgettable, with a 13km guided trek into the valley, through three hill tribe villages and the Ham Rong Mountain Park with its overlook, not to be missed. Dancing in the town square provided some unexpected entertainment. (see video No.6 >)
Sapa Lake and highest mountain 'Fansipan' just right of centre at the top. |
'Linear Hanoi'. Two city landscape views. |
Back to Hanoi, travelling on the very comfortable sleeper bus, for a final few days with Scott and Issie. Our hotel choice wasn't the best, but a demonstration on how to make egg coffee at a local cafe was a bonus, as was watching the football with Scott and riding on his motorbike back to the hotel at midnight through the Hanoi traffic.
It was now getting noticeably colder and our final adventure beckoned … as we flew to Cambodia >>>
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