Introduction to

Margaret and Bill's travels

Monday, 23 September 2013

1-2-3. At last we're Up, Up and Away!


Finally, after two postponements we actually made our long awaited Balloon Flight yesterday. 
Though naturally this wasn't without a few last minute changes to the plan before we got inflated and airborne. Briefly, 11.00pm phone call the night before to check if the flight was going ahead as planned, became, call again in the morning at 9am. The original meeting place was different and now 30 minutes further west of Henley and we had to be there for 11.00. On arrival at the Chiltern Park Aerodrome, it was full of parachutists waiting to chute. Our Virgin balloon team showed and instructed us to drive back towards Wallingford and a disused college playing field, from where we would launch.
Having assisted in laying out and inflating the enormous balloon we were no sooner in the basket as we were in the air. Just amazing.
The winds were very light and with a cloud base of just 1800 feet we drifted slowly above Wallingford and then more slowly eastwards. The first thing that struck me was how incredibly silent it was. Obviously the periodic whoosh of the balloon burner flame interrupted the calm, but in between it was almost surreal in the surrounding quiet, especially on those occasions we rose into the clouds and became enveloped in a white out.


But back to the smooth disquiet of drifting eastwards: down below you could see things moving but couldn't hear them (apart from a few motorcyclists that is). Our progress was leisurely as flat fields slowly became rolling hills as we followed the A4130 towards the Chilterns. Looking straight down, trees and shrubs were almost one dimensional, resembling the shapes of mere garden design plans. A car scrapyard looked just like a pile of kids toys. And to see the Red Kites flying from above, rather than the usual below, was just fantastic.
The distances we could see reduced in the hills and very gently we came back to earth. Our pilot opened the 'parachute valve' at the top of the balloon and down we came. Touching the ground once, for luck, before eventually landing on some common, somewhere just north of Nettlebed. 
River Thames, running north.

All hands to help fold up the balloon and squeeze it back into its impossibly small bag. Champagne and certificates and then all aboard a mini bus to take us back to our starting point and our cars. (Only about 7km away).

What a great trip. Very smooth (a car ride is more bumpy) and very safe. 
Just loved it !


Selection of aerial pictures follows:



Someone's modest back garden





Certificated proof !

Thursday, 16 May 2013

Sardinian Honeymoon


Sardinia. Second largest island in the Mediterranean (after Sicily). An autonomous region of Italy.
"Tell me something I don't know." I hear you say... ok then, how about:
Sardinia was called Ichnusa (the Latinised form of the Greek Hyknousa). 'Ichnusa' is now the local beer. There are around 7,000 nuraghi (an ancient megalithic edifice from 1900-730BC) scattered all over the island. And there's 1,849 km of coastline, mainly high and rocky with many outstanding headlands, with 67.9% of the island amusingly referred to as 'hilly'. As we would discover...


Honeymoon. We knew we wouldn't see that much of Sardinia due to its size. Once we discovered the 'hills' our horizons became even less far fetched as we only touched on the South West corner, around PULA (as marked on the map, right).


Villa Del Borgo*
An elegant hotel, our honeymoon retreat, just 3km south of Pula, proved a great choice and the junior suite tucked away from the main building with its private pool was idyllic. As luck would have it, being early season, we had the pool to ourselves for the first 4 days. Just us and all the song birds. Twittering sweet nothings... !

Pula
The nearby town of Pula revealed itself by degrees, on each visit we found something new and enjoyable. Its restaurants all offered the local speciality seafood pasta dishes of alla campidanese (spicy sausage and tomato) or alla bottarga (mullet roe - or fish eggs as the menu put it). The town grew on us which was nicely unexpected. While the beaches at Chia, just 15km south, are not to be missed. 


Chia
This is a beautiful part of not only Sardinia, but the world. Glorious white sandy beaches and inviting crystal seas that out of the main summer season are uncrowded and lovely.
Our favourite was near the Torre de Chia which provided shelter from the wind and on top of the fantastic views from the Tower there was a tiny beach bar. (See photos below) called Chiosco-Bar 'Su Portu'. 
We spent many an enjoyable end of the day accompanied by an ice cream or a beer listening to the excellent music the owner played. 
While this was one of the many lovely beaches in an area that offers more than just grains of passing sand, the drive around the coast and the scenery was breathtaking.
The first time we took the winding road it was unexpected, finding ourselves there without planning it. So the second time was full of expectation as we pulled off the main S195 sign-posted Chia, it said 26 km to Porto di Teulada. What it didn't say was prepare yourself for one of the most scenic drives ever. Twisting back and forth the road climbs and descends around the coastline in and out of hills covered in macchia shrubland (macchia is 'thicket' in English - which sounds far less attractive), these shrubs appear in so many colours in the spring it's just beautiful. Occasionally the view would open up as mountains and bays and beaches just stretched away into the distance.
You can't take your eye off the road for a second and maximum concentration is necessary. Far better to do the drive a second time, as we did.
Last night in Pula
* Our holiday was booked through Sardinian Places, part of Serenity Holidays. Included B&B accommodation, hire-car for the whole stay and flights from London Stansted to Cagliari. The rep met us at the airport and showed us the way to the hotel. Everything was very smooth and went without a hitch. It was just us that got hitched!


Torre de Chia - beach bar - Chiosco-Bar 'Su Portu'
View from the tower
Junior Suite 306 - with private pool








Wednesday, 16 January 2013

South Africa 2012 - Mpumalanga


"YOU TAKE THE HIGHVELD AND I'LL TAKE THE LOWVELD"


Leaving behind a cold and freezing London and landing in Johannesburg on December 8th for a two week holiday certainly took away the stress and the chill off the Christmas build up. For this alone it was a great, the trip that followed was even better.

Spending the first week in Witbank with Margaret's family, brother Gordon and his wife Mary-Ann, their son Ryan and her mother, who was visiting, was a good chance to catch up (and for me to know members of the family I had not previously met).
Family fun: 'Potjie' Night
It was relaxing, shorts and tee shirt weather, warm but not so sunny or too hot. We had a couple of spectacular rainstorms which turned the road behind the house into a river as cars sailed up and down it.
For our second week we hired a car and drove eastwards (see map). Further into the Highveld - an inland plateau at an altitude above 1500m (4920ft), but below 2100m (6900ft) - through the Drakensberg mountains (Panorama) down to the Lowveld and the Kruger National Park. Returning via Badplaas (to spend time with Gordon and Mary-Ann, now on holiday themselves) on route back to Jo'burg airport.

Approximately 1,000 km driven - though with side trips we did plenty more:-


















DEC 16th: WITBANK to DULLSTROOM

Arriving in Dullstroom (fly-fishing country) around mid afternoon in sunshine and cloud. The areas changeable climate was demonstrated in full during our short stay.
We splashed out and stayed at the Critchley Hackle Lodge. Not cheap but very nice. Rooms had a log-fire and a big bath, a restaurant over looking the lake and delicious food. We recommend spoiling yourself occasionally.
This charming little town has hidden away at its northern end The Anvil Ale Brewery. We enjoyed some of their delights while watching the rain and mist descend from up above. The unusual 'Bookoo' Witbeer is not to be missed, if you ask me. See www.anvilbrewery.com for more information.

DEC 17th: DULLSTROOM to MARLOTH PARK

Note: Watch out for 'Bacardi' the cat, who 'breezed' into our room and made itself right at home and gave us quite a shock. Perhaps that's how it got its name ?

Leaving Dullstroom mid morning in more sunshine and cloud the drive on empty roads to Lydenburg and then along the Long Tom Pass was breathtaking. (When you could see.) I was driving the winding road as mist and thicker cloud swirled around us and as a consequence I needed to concentrate. Take your eye off the misty twisty drive for a second and it could be your last. It was fantastic and spectacular and I was glad we had not missed it, even if some of the scenery was hidden.
Somehow we never found the Sudwala Caves (which was our intention to visit) as we climbed down from the mountains into the tropical warmth of Nelspruit. Back on the N4 east, through an amazing mountain pass and on towards Marloth Park and the Kruger.
Our directions proved short on detail and aided by the confusing road signs we took totally the wrong road into Marloth Park. A suspension testing, axle jolting ride along a dirt track even four wheelers would have found a challenge. We managed to make the gate and the smoother road to the Bush Centre and eventually to Du Bois Lodge. Where we were informed of the error of our ways and made note to take the correct route (a new sealed road to the east of the park) next time.
Nick Du Bois (Margaret's sister-in-law's brother) welcomed us and showed us his beautiful lodge, where we would stay for 4 nights.
TOP TIP: Having inquired about taking malaria tablets and being told it was not really necessary, we took our own precautions in the shape of garlic pills and applying plenty of insect repellant with a further application of pre and during dinner gin and tonics. This proved a capital idea and much cheaper than prescription drugs and happily a more sociable form of medication.


DEC 18th: MARLOTH PARK (Panorama Day Tour)

The first of our booked trips took us back into the Drakensberg Mountains for a drive around the sites. Once away from the lowland we found the cloud and rain again, but the trip was very enjoyable, not least because of the lovely group of people we shared it with. Staying at our lodge were a family from Mozambique of Portuguese descent and a couple we'd had drinks with the evening before. It was quite a mix of personalities and accents speaking English, laughing in the language of your choice and listening to Nick's tour guiding while we all sat back and enjoyed the ride.
The scenery was often hidden by mist as Nick insisted Margaret had brought the Scottish weather with her.
Sabie, Graskop, Pilgrim's Rest, various waterfalls, the incredible Blyde River Canyon, the three Rondavels and Bourke's Luck Potholes meant we were in and out of our mini-bus seats all day long.
Blyde River Canyon, breathtaking backdrop























DEC 19th: MARLOTH PARK (Kruger Park Day Trip)


We also have a great video of this elephant
Another early start saw our Open Vehicle arrive on time and Kobus Spangenberg, our driver and fieldguide, introduce himself and our fellow day trippers, four Dutch people. Again English was the common language with Afrikaans making itself useful. In the morning chill we sped off to Crocodile Bridge Gate and into the Kruger Park for our full day tour.
Kobus was very knowledgeable and helpful, more than happy to answer all your questions and always taking time to stop, back up and look for any animal sightings, no matter what you thought you might have seen. Everyone wants to see the 'Big Five', we managed three, missing out on lion and leopard, but this was partly compensated by seeing cheetah cubs.
WARNING: Blatantly obvious caption alert. Zebra Crossing !
At one point we were allowed off the truck to walk a short distance to stand on a rock overlooking an area named 'Hippo Pool'. The expected inhabitants briefly obliged with eyes and ears but otherwise were rather shy.
The Kruger Park is roughly the size of Wales and we only touched on a small corner of it. Driving around is very easy as many of the roads are paved and apart from the side tracks a 4-wheel drive vehicle is not essential. This does increase the traffic, though we found plenty of peace and quite to view the animals without noise and disturbance. 

A great day and would highly recommend Kobus as an excellent personal tour guide. Cost ZAR750 (app. £55). See more info at www.krugerafricasafaris.co.za


DEC 20th: MARLOTH PARK to MAPUTO (Mozambique)

Having set our hearts on going to Mozambique the news of the cost for a day visitor visa was not enough to put us off. Though at 684 rand there would be many that would say no thank you, to that rip-off.
Up and on the road early on the instruction of Nick that the border crossing could take some time was the advice of a seasoned travel warrior. Despite his attempts to organise them, and Nick wasn't scared to try, the border bureaucracy was intense. Without Nick I think we may have been there all day trying to work out which queue to join and then where to go next. In the event we got through in about two hours but not without amazement at such chaos and of course our pockets a lot lighter of rands.
View from restaurant
That said the trip was great. Nick showing us the sights of Maputo and give us an insight into the old and new of the capitial city. The remarkable Polana Hotel, the craft market followed by a nice lunch overlooking the disappointingly rubbish littered beach were typical contrasts in a fast developing and recovering city.


We shared the return journey with a large group returning from their weeks holiday in Mozambique to Komatiepoort. Along with the additional crowded fun and games and more passport stamps at the Lebombo border.


Hotel Polana. Luxury at $400 a night.

DEC 21st: MARLOTH PARK to BADPLAAS

Ryan on Rinkles ride
Our return journey west allowed us to meet up with Gordon and Mary-Ann and Ryan at the Forever resort in Badplaas. 
Quiet a contrast to the peace and quite of the so called 'Wild Frontier' in the Kruger. This was just wild. Hot pools, splash pools, water slides, it reminded me of an outdoor 'Center Parcs'. Loads to do for kids of all ages.
Camping, chalets and a hotel. Excellent security. Along with a supermarket, shops and restaurants all on site.
On the drive we had past through Barberton on a scenic traffic free road through the mountains, another memorable and spectacular drive. 

A simply beautiful part of the world. 
"From the high road to the low, to sea level and back again."

When can we go again ?



Thursday, 5 July 2012

Cable Car Ride

Emirates Air Line.
Greenwich peninsula (Excel Centre) to the O2 (Dome).

What a fantastic trip. And with an Oyster card only £3.20 with no queuing.
It's short but sweet, compared with the London Eye, which might last longer but then so do the queues to get on.


Up, Up and Away on the Air Line across the Thames.


When can we go again ?

Malta

My cousin (a visitor on many occasions) said that Malta was like 'marmite' ! This was him referring not to any old taste but on his feelings that "Malta, you either love it, or hate it!"
At first all you see are the breeze block walls and half finished buildings. You steer clear of the crazy driving, you feel the potholed roads rattling beneath you as you drive past the dry rather monotone landscape.
Then you start to see through the uniform colours and relax into a diet of constant sunshine, clear waters, scenic bars and wide bays. Slowly you catch your breath and all's well with the world.
Santa Maria Estate, Mellieha.
The pool at the house where we were staying was just perfect.
Pace yourself on cheap drinks and reasonable food with plenty of interesting places to visit never far away. We had a lovely holiday.

We also celebrated the Queen's Diamond Jubilee in glorious sunshine, while watching the rainy River Thames pageant on the TV. A British Tea party in our home from home in Malta.
"Cucumber sandwich anyone"
We can recommend the day trip to Gozo (Marsalforn, Cliffs at San Lawrenz). The boat trip round Valletta harbour with Luzzu Cruises. officialluzzucruises.com  And the beach at Golden Bay. Though turn left, not right as the beach at Ghajn Tuffieha is much nicer. See below.



Monday, 26 September 2011

Priddy

A church, a school, an ancient sheep hurdle on the green and two pubs! 
Oh, and a clapped out motor car...




Priddy is a small village sitting on top of the Mendip Hills in Somerset (1,000 feet above sea-level). It's all downhill from here. Towards the north lies Cheddar Gorge and the limestone honeycombe continues to Wookey Hole in the south.
A few days peace and quiet in this village at a nice B&B was just what the doctor would have ordered, if we had consulted him before hand.
The two main attractions mentioned are certainly worth the trip and the pubs are too.
Average pub prices for a meal (around £8+) offered far better than average food and the hospitality at both places friendly and warm. I can also recommend the local Butcombe Ale at the Queen Victoria while the even more local 'Potholer' at the New Inn is not to be missed. A pint or three of this is the perfect accompaniment to a gentle wander back up the road, to your nearby B&B, if you know where you're going.

Priddy is, you may be surprised to learn (we were) full of holes, Swildon's Hole is just outside the village, the church is a Grade 1 listed building and every year they host a folk festival, that will celebrate 21 years in 2012.


The above reference to a clapped out motor car is our Peugeot that liked Priddy so much it wanted to stay longer, and subsequently refused to start when we were leaving. A tow to a garage and we await the final outcome of this petulant behaviour. Cars, who'd have 'em.

Thursday, 23 June 2011

The Old Man of Storr

June 2011
Just north of Loch Leathan on the A855 (the main, indeed only road) on the east of the Trotternish peninsula on the Isle of Skye.
Very dense

It was still earlier in the day and fortunately we found a parking space at the footpath entrance leading to the Storr. The first mile was through forestry, very dense and shrouded in shadows and shafts of sunlight as the well trodden path constructed in parts of helpful stepping stones wound gradually up hill. It's uneven though and sensible shoes (children) are a must. 
Emerging into a wide open landscape the rock pinnacles appearing in front of us. 
There were a number of different side tracks but we followed the steady procession on the obvious route beneath the Storr.
As we approached the Old Man the mist descended (see picture) and then it began to drizzle causing us to employ a head scarf (Margaret) and a flimsy jacket hood (me). Undaunted by these fashion statements we boldly ventured upwards to the ridge, which was level with the Old Man of Storr, so had to be nearly 2,000 feet above the sea. 

The view southwards, whence we came
We were rewarded with an all round view. The Storr some 300 feet higher to the west had a firm grip on the clouds. To the north of Skye and beyond it was sunny. While in the east on Western Ross you could see beaches seemingly bathed in sunshine and past Raasay island the mountain ranges piled up away into the distance. Photos could never quiet capture all the layers of colours you could see and happily we could now also see the rain ceasing to fall for the potential slippy hike back down.
It wasn't difficult if you took it slow and we had all day if we wanted. So we dinnae care, yer ken?





Hike took us around 2 hours and cost us approximately 600 calories each, otherwise it was FREE.










Places of note closeby:
'The Small and Cosy Tea Shop', Digg just north of Staffin.
More a spiritual infusion than simple afternoon tea. Relaxing and a full menu of teas.

"Whitehirst' Bed and Breakfast, Portree.
Lovely, friendly and the best breakfast ever. Great Value.