South Africa 2012 - Mpumalanga

"YOU TAKE THE HIGHVELD AND I'LL TAKE THE LOWVELD"

Leaving behind a cold and freezing London and landing in Johannesburg on December 8th for a two week holiday certainly took away the stress and the chill off the Christmas build up. For this alone it was a great, the trip that followed was even better.

Spending the first week in Witbank with Margaret's family, brother Gordon and his wife Mary-Ann, their son Ryan and her mother, who was visiting, was a good chance to catch up (and for me to know members of the family I had not previously met).

Family fun: 'Potjie' Night

It was relaxing, shorts and tee shirt weather, warm but not so sunny or too hot. We had a couple of spectacular rainstorms which turned the road behind the house into a river as cars sailed up and down it.
For our second week we hired a car and drove eastwards (see map). Further into the Highveld - an inland plateau at an altitude above 1500m (4920ft), but below 2100m (6900ft) - through the Drakensberg mountains (Panorama) down to the Lowveld and the Kruger National Park. Returning via Badplaas (to spend time with Gordon and Mary-Ann, now on holiday themselves) on route back to Jo'burg airport.

Approximately 1,000 km driven - though with side trips we did plenty more:-

DEC 16th: WITBANK to DULLSTROOM

Arriving in Dullstroom (fly-fishing country) around mid afternoon in sunshine and cloud. The areas changeable climate was demonstrated in full during our short stay.
We splashed out and stayed at the Critchley Hackle Lodge. Not cheap but very nice. Rooms had a log-fire and a big bath, a restaurant over looking the lake and delicious food. We recommend spoiling yourself occasionally.
This charming little town has hidden away at its northern end The Anvil Ale Brewery. We enjoyed some of their delights while watching the rain and mist descend from up above. The unusual 'Bookoo' Witbeer is not to be missed, if you ask me. See www.anvilbrewery.com for more information.

DEC 17th: DULLSTROOM to MARLOTH PARK

Note: Watch out for 'Bacardi' the cat, who 'breezed' into our room and made itself right at home and gave us quite a shock. Perhaps that's how it got its name ?

Leaving Dullstroom mid morning in more sunshine and cloud the drive on empty roads to Lydenburg and then along the Long Tom Pass was breathtaking. (When you could see.) I was driving the winding road as mist and thicker cloud swirled around us and as a consequence I needed to concentrate. Take your eye off the misty twisty drive for a second and it could be your last. It was fantastic and spectacular and I was glad we had not missed it, even if some of the scenery was hidden.

Somehow we never found the Sudwala Caves (which was our intention to visit) as we climbed down from the mountains into the tropical warmth of Nelspruit. Back on the N4 east, through an amazing mountain pass and on towards Marloth Park and the Kruger.

Our directions proved short on detail and aided by the confusing road signs we took totally the wrong road into Marloth Park. A suspension testing, axle jolting ride along a dirt track even four wheelers would have found a challenge. We managed to make the gate and the smoother road to the Bush Centre and eventually to Du Bois Lodge. Where we were informed of the error of our ways and made note to take the correct route (a new sealed road to the east of the park) next time.

Nick Du Bois (Margaret's sister-in-law's brother) welcomed us and showed us his beautiful lodge, where we would stay for 4 nights.

TOP TIP: Having inquired about taking malaria tablets and being told it was not really necessary, we took our own precautions in the shape of garlic pills and applying plenty of insect repellant with a further application of pre and during dinner gin and tonics. This proved a capital idea and much cheaper than prescription drugs and happily a more sociable form of medication.

DEC 18th: MARLOTH PARK (Panorama Day Tour)

The first of our booked trips took us back into the Drakensberg Mountains for a drive around the sites. Once away from the lowland we found the cloud and rain again, but the trip was very enjoyable, not least because of the lovely group of people we shared it with. Staying at our lodge were a family from Mozambique of Portuguese descent and a couple we'd had drinks with the evening before. It was quite a mix of personalities and accents speaking English, laughing in the language of your choice and listening to Nick's tour guiding while we all sat back and enjoyed the ride.

The scenery was often hidden by mist as Nick insisted Margaret had brought the Scottish weather with her.

Sabie, Graskop, Pilgrim's Rest, various waterfalls, the incredible Blyde River Canyon, the three Rondavels and Bourke's Luck Potholes meant we were in and out of our mini-bus seats all day long.

Blyde River Canyon, breathtaking backdrop

DEC 19th: MARLOTH PARK (Kruger Park Day Trip)

We also have a great video of this elephant

Another early start saw our Open Vehicle arrive on time and Kobus Spangenberg, our driver and fieldguide, introduce himself and our fellow day trippers, four Dutch people. Again English was the common language with Afrikaans making itself useful. In the morning chill we sped off to Crocodile Bridge Gate and into the Kruger Park for our full day tour.

Kobus was very knowledgeable and helpful, more than happy to answer all your questions and always taking time to stop, back up and look for any animal sightings, no matter what you thought you might have seen. Everyone wants to see the 'Big Five', we managed three, missing out on lion and leopard, but this was partly compensated by seeing cheetah cubs.

WARNING: Blatantly obvious caption alert. Zebra Crossing !

At one point we were allowed off the truck to walk a short distance to stand on a rock overlooking an area named 'Hippo Pool'. The expected inhabitants briefly obliged with eyes and ears but otherwise were rather shy.

The Kruger Park is roughly the size of Wales and we only touched on a small corner of it. Driving around is very easy as many of the roads are paved and apart from the side tracks a 4-wheel drive vehicle is not essential. This does increase the traffic, though we found plenty of peace and quite to view the animals without noise and disturbance. 

A great day and would highly recommend Kobus as an excellent personal tour guide. Cost ZAR750 (app. £55). See more info at www.krugerafricasafaris.co.za

DEC 20th: MARLOTH PARK to MAPUTO (Mozambique)

Having set our hearts on going to Mozambique the news of the cost for a day visitor visa was not enough to put us off. Though at 684 rand there would be many that would say no thank you, to that rip-off.

Up and on the road early on the instruction of Nick that the border crossing could take some time was the advice of a seasoned travel warrior. Despite his attempts to organise them, and Nick wasn't scared to try, the border bureaucracy was intense. Without Nick I think we may have been there all day trying to work out which queue to join and then where to go next. In the event we got through in about two hours but not without amazement at such chaos and of course our pockets a lot lighter of rands.

View from restaurant

That said the trip was great. Nick showing us the sights of Maputo and give us an insight into the old and new of the capitial city. The remarkable Polana Hotel, the craft market followed by a nice lunch overlooking the disappointingly rubbish littered beach were typical contrasts in a fast developing and recovering city.

We shared the return journey with a large group returning from their weeks holiday in Mozambique to Komatiepoort. Along with the additional crowded fun and games and more passport stamps at the Lebombo border.

Hotel Polana. Luxury at $400 a night.

DEC 21st: MARLOTH PARK to BADPLAAS

Ryan on Rinkles ride

Our return journey west allowed us to meet up with Gordon and Mary-Ann and Ryan at the Forever resort in Badplaas. 

Quiet a contrast to the peace and quite of the so called 'Wild Frontier' in the Kruger. This was just wild. Hot pools, splash pools, water slides, it reminded me of an outdoor 'Center Parcs'. Loads to do for kids of all ages.

Camping, chalets and a hotel. Excellent security. Along with a supermarket, shops and restaurants all on site.

On the drive we had past through Barberton on a scenic traffic free road through the mountains, another memorable and spectacular drive. 

A simply beautiful part of the world. 
"From the high road to the low, to sea level and back again."

When can we go again ?

Cable Car Ride

Emirates Air Line.
Greenwich peninsula (Excel Centre) to the O2 (Dome).

What a fantastic trip. And with an Oyster card only £3.20 with no queuing.
It's short but sweet, compared with the London Eye, which might last longer but then so do the queues to get on.

Up, Up and Away on the Air Line across the Thames.

When can we go again ?

Malta

My cousin (a visitor on many occasions) said that Malta was like 'marmite' ! This was him referring not to any old taste but on his feelings that "Malta, you either love it, or hate it!"
At first all you see are the breeze block walls and half finished buildings. You steer clear of the crazy driving, you feel the potholed roads rattling beneath you as you drive past the dry rather monotone landscape.
Then you start to see through the uniform colours and relax into a diet of constant sunshine, clear waters, scenic bars and wide bays. Slowly you catch your breath and all's well with the world.

Santa Maria Estate, Mellieha.
The pool at the house where we were staying was just perfect.

Pace yourself on cheap drinks and reasonable food with plenty of interesting places to visit never far away. We had a lovely holiday.

We also celebrated the Queen's Diamond Jubilee in glorious sunshine, while watching the rainy River Thames pageant on the TV. A British Tea party in our home from home in Malta.

"Cucumber sandwich anyone"

We can recommend the day trip to Gozo (Marsalforn, Cliffs at San Lawrenz). The boat trip round Valletta harbour with Luzzu Cruises. officialluzzucruises.com  And the beach at Golden Bay. Though turn left, not right as the beach at Ghajn Tuffieha is much nicer. See below.

Priddy

A church, a school, an ancient sheep hurdle on the green and two pubs! 
Oh, and a clapped out motor car...

Priddy is a small village sitting on top of the Mendip Hills in Somerset (1,000 feet above sea-level). It's all downhill from here. Towards the north lies Cheddar Gorge and the limestone honeycombe continues to Wookey Hole in the south.
A few days peace and quiet in this village at a nice B&B was just what the doctor would have ordered, if we had consulted him before hand.
The two main attractions mentioned are certainly worth the trip and the pubs are too.
Average pub prices for a meal (around £8+) offered far better than average food and the hospitality at both places friendly and warm. I can also recommend the local Butcombe Ale at the Queen Victoria while the even more local 'Potholer' at the New Inn is not to be missed. A pint or three of this is the perfect accompaniment to a gentle wander back up the road, to your nearby B&B, if you know where you're going.

Priddy is, you may be surprised to learn (we were) full of holes, Swildon's Hole is just outside the village, the church is a Grade 1 listed building and every year they host a folk festival, that will celebrate 21 years in 2012.


The above reference to a clapped out motor car is our Peugeot that liked Priddy so much it wanted to stay longer, and subsequently refused to start when we were leaving. A tow to a garage and we await the final outcome of this petulant behaviour. Cars, who'd have 'em.

The Old Man of Storr

June 2011

Just north of Loch Leathan on the A855 (the main, indeed only road) on the east of the Trotternish peninsula on the Isle of Skye.

Very dense

It was still earlier in the day and fortunately we found a parking space at the footpath entrance leading to the Storr. The first mile was through forestry, very dense and shrouded in shadows and shafts of sunlight as the well trodden path constructed in parts of helpful stepping stones wound gradually up hill. It's uneven though and sensible shoes (children) are a must. 

Emerging into a wide open landscape the rock pinnacles appearing in front of us. 
There were a number of different side tracks but we followed the steady procession on the obvious route beneath the Storr.

As we approached the Old Man the mist descended (see picture) and then it began to drizzle causing us to employ a head scarf (Margaret) and a flimsy jacket hood (me). Undaunted by these fashion statements we boldly ventured upwards to the ridge, which was level with the Old Man of Storr, so had to be nearly 2,000 feet above the sea. 

The view southwards, whence we came

We were rewarded with an all round view. The Storr some 300 feet higher to the west had a firm grip on the clouds. To the north of Skye and beyond it was sunny. While in the east on Western Ross you could see beaches seemingly bathed in sunshine and past Raasay island the mountain ranges piled up away into the distance. Photos could never quiet capture all the layers of colours you could see and happily we could now also see the rain ceasing to fall for the potential slippy hike back down.

It wasn't difficult if you took it slow and we had all day if we wanted. So we dinnae care, yer ken?

Hike took us around 2 hours and cost us approximately 600 calories each, otherwise it was FREE.

Places of note closeby:

'The Small and Cosy Tea Shop', Digg just north of Staffin.

More a spiritual infusion than simple afternoon tea. Relaxing and a full menu of teas.

"Whitehirst' Bed and Breakfast, Portree.

Lovely, friendly and the best breakfast ever. Great Value.

Narrowboat on the Thames

April 2011

We had wanted to 'do' a boat trip for ages. Rather than any old boat, we preferred the traditional narrowboat option. However, working our way through any number of locks was not so preferred and we chose the wider and less 'locked' stretch of the River Thames up stream from Oxford.

The plan, with our friends Jane and Nigel, was to travel the 27 miles from Lechlade towards Oxford, see how far we got before making our way back up stream again to the original starting point. The length of the narrow boat (pictured) proved in the event more of a problem than any locks we encountered. The winding twisting nature of this part of the Thames was more than a match for novices such as ourselves and this baptism of fire resulted in a few too many encounters with trees than was good for the health.

Turning this 50 foot plus narrow boat around some of the hair pin bends on that first afternoon resulted in not only river bank foliage damage but injury to Nigel's bike. For which I personally take full responsibility but reserve the right to blame external forces, mainly the weeping willow trees that hug the river banks.

Average speed 4 miles an hour, it might have been, it was still too fast to manoeuvre such a large vehicle through unchartered (by us at least) waterways. The moment, the following day, that Nigel hit on the plan to throw the boat into reverse if heading towards a place you'd rather avoid was an important discovery, if only to stop your forward motion.

It allowed a previously undiscovered level of control as slowly but surely we picked our way through ancient and off-centre bridges (above) and various other obstacles that presented themselves at regular and alarming intervals. If you were at the 'tiller' you couldn't take your eyes off the river for a minute. The helpful, and sometimes unhelpful, prompting of fellow travellers beside you often added to the sense of concentration necessary.

The second day was overcast, 'Windy in the Willows', a cold wind blew and a light drizzle kept you wrapped up and excepting any offer of a cup of tea that was going. The day ended at the lock at Eynsham and we retired to The Talbot public house, five minutes walk away, for much deserved sustenance.

Day 3 saw Jane and Nigel leave us to it. The bike repaired they rode off to visit a relative and make their way back to Lechlade and their car.

We elected not to continue the short distance on to Oxford but take the cautionary route back 'home'. This in the event was a good decision. Now just Margaret and me we envisaged a hands-on deficiency that while not such a problem through the locks was tested to the full when trying to moor up for the night. It was at this time we remembered amongst all the things we had been taught during that first afternoons tuition that holding the centre rope would prevent the front of the boat and/or the back from drifting out when you wanted the bow or the arf 'in'. The slopping bank didn't aid our cause but eventually we managed to moor up and enjoy what was left of a lovely sunny day.

The final full day was long but equally as sunny and enjoyable in that we finally got the hang of turning through the windy river bends. A narrow boat rather slides through the turns and doesn't look like it's ever going to make it but when it does you actually feel you have a degree of control. A revelation from just two days previous. We finally made the final lock on the Thames, St John's, after the lock keeper had finished for the day. Such was our confidence now that we got in and out all by ourselves, which drew a very satisfied look from Margaret and myself.

Celebration dinner that evening in the Trout pub nearby (recommended), all that was left was to clean up the boat and try to disguise any scratches and travel the final 20 minutes into Lechlade the next morning.

Jane and Nigel had cycled back to Lechlade in two hours, it took us two days.

But we had had a great time, if a bit less relaxing than anticipated. We confirmed our enjoyment to the 'Oxfordshire Narrowboats' people on our arrival back at the dock, saying we would do it again if maybe on straighter canals the next time and perhaps with a shorter boat. The close encounters with the River Thames, it's vegetation and it's bridges will linger long in the memory.
As we sped away from Lechlade in our car the strangest thing happened. Having spent four days cruising at 4 mph it felt impossibly fast to be driving down the road approaching 40 mph with the tarmac racing towards us. 


'Oxfordshire Narrowboats'
Lower Heyford, Oxfordshire OX25 5PD
www.oxfordshire-narrowboats.co.uk

(4 day mid-week break in April, hire cost: £635)