Narrowboat on the Thames

April 2011

We had wanted to 'do' a boat trip for ages. Rather than any old boat, we preferred the traditional narrowboat option. However, working our way through any number of locks was not so preferred and we chose the wider and less 'locked' stretch of the River Thames up stream from Oxford.

The plan, with our friends Jane and Nigel, was to travel the 27 miles from Lechlade towards Oxford, see how far we got before making our way back up stream again to the original starting point. The length of the narrow boat (pictured) proved in the event more of a problem than any locks we encountered. The winding twisting nature of this part of the Thames was more than a match for novices such as ourselves and this baptism of fire resulted in a few too many encounters with trees than was good for the health.

Turning this 50 foot plus narrow boat around some of the hair pin bends on that first afternoon resulted in not only river bank foliage damage but injury to Nigel's bike. For which I personally take full responsibility but reserve the right to blame external forces, mainly the weeping willow trees that hug the river banks.

Average speed 4 miles an hour, it might have been, it was still too fast to manoeuvre such a large vehicle through unchartered (by us at least) waterways. The moment, the following day, that Nigel hit on the plan to throw the boat into reverse if heading towards a place you'd rather avoid was an important discovery, if only to stop your forward motion.

It allowed a previously undiscovered level of control as slowly but surely we picked our way through ancient and off-centre bridges (above) and various other obstacles that presented themselves at regular and alarming intervals. If you were at the 'tiller' you couldn't take your eyes off the river for a minute. The helpful, and sometimes unhelpful, prompting of fellow travellers beside you often added to the sense of concentration necessary.

The second day was overcast, 'Windy in the Willows', a cold wind blew and a light drizzle kept you wrapped up and excepting any offer of a cup of tea that was going. The day ended at the lock at Eynsham and we retired to The Talbot public house, five minutes walk away, for much deserved sustenance.

Day 3 saw Jane and Nigel leave us to it. The bike repaired they rode off to visit a relative and make their way back to Lechlade and their car.

We elected not to continue the short distance on to Oxford but take the cautionary route back 'home'. This in the event was a good decision. Now just Margaret and me we envisaged a hands-on deficiency that while not such a problem through the locks was tested to the full when trying to moor up for the night. It was at this time we remembered amongst all the things we had been taught during that first afternoons tuition that holding the centre rope would prevent the front of the boat and/or the back from drifting out when you wanted the bow or the arf 'in'. The slopping bank didn't aid our cause but eventually we managed to moor up and enjoy what was left of a lovely sunny day.

The final full day was long but equally as sunny and enjoyable in that we finally got the hang of turning through the windy river bends. A narrow boat rather slides through the turns and doesn't look like it's ever going to make it but when it does you actually feel you have a degree of control. A revelation from just two days previous. We finally made the final lock on the Thames, St John's, after the lock keeper had finished for the day. Such was our confidence now that we got in and out all by ourselves, which drew a very satisfied look from Margaret and myself.

Celebration dinner that evening in the Trout pub nearby (recommended), all that was left was to clean up the boat and try to disguise any scratches and travel the final 20 minutes into Lechlade the next morning.

Jane and Nigel had cycled back to Lechlade in two hours, it took us two days.

But we had had a great time, if a bit less relaxing than anticipated. We confirmed our enjoyment to the 'Oxfordshire Narrowboats' people on our arrival back at the dock, saying we would do it again if maybe on straighter canals the next time and perhaps with a shorter boat. The close encounters with the River Thames, it's vegetation and it's bridges will linger long in the memory.
As we sped away from Lechlade in our car the strangest thing happened. Having spent four days cruising at 4 mph it felt impossibly fast to be driving down the road approaching 40 mph with the tarmac racing towards us. 


'Oxfordshire Narrowboats'
Lower Heyford, Oxfordshire OX25 5PD
www.oxfordshire-narrowboats.co.uk

(4 day mid-week break in April, hire cost: £635)