Almost one year after being in South Africa we found ourselves there once again, primarily to see Margaret's mum and to catch up with her after her 80th birthday a few months previously.
Keep up more like. It was good to see, following eye problems earlier in the year, that she was her usual active self and as determined and independent as ever.
We were able to take her out as often as she wanted to join us. And in between we visited friends. Here's a view by day diary of where we went and who we saw during our 16 day stay. (see map, for those of you unfamiliar with the area, scroll down if you are).
DAY ONE - VIEW ONE
Cape Town is never short on fantastic views, as you will see here. After taking for the first time the long-haul route to South Africa - via Dubai - we arrived tired and ready for sleep. Luckily we were in our hire car and driving away from the airport within half an hour of landing. Our first night was booked at Gordon's Bay in a B&B that offered a clear panorama of the whole of False Bay. (see pic). The only problem being the slight misnomer of the hotel address. Rather than being on a back street as expected, its main entrance actually fronted the R44 main coast road. With the sound of cars whooshing along this road, not quite our early morning cup of tea. The lie-in (after a long flight) didn't quite happen for us.
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| View 1 - False Bay |
DAY TWO - VIEW TWO
Following the very same R44 road around the coast to Hermanus, the sun was out long enough for us to enjoy the spectacular scenery, before the weather turned bad and light rain turned to downpours.
As we arrived just east of Hermanus to visit Barbara and Vince it fairly clattered down...... and continued raining for the next 27 hours without stopping.
They took us to see the view from the Klein Rivier Mountains overlook, which wasn't very clear, much like the brief sight of whales from the windy deck of the Gecko pub were we took refuge and refreshments.
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| View 4 - River road |
DAY THREE - VIEW THREE
All we saw today was rain. Lot's of it. (More on the weather front in part 2).
We did see Ally and Kurt though.
DAY FOUR - VIEW FOUR
After joining many of the locals venturing out to see the damage caused by the weather, we drove into Hermanus town and with Ally and Kurt meeting Barbara and Vince for the first time we all had lunch at Ocean Basket. Then driving with Barbara and Vince towards Caledon to collect their son, the road became a river and so impassable. (see pic).
DAY FIVE - VIEW FIVE
We had picked out a scenic route back to Cape Town, away from the coast. Heading north to Villiersdorp it was still early and in the sunshine we decided to venture on. Through Worcester to scenic route 62 we took the Bain's Kloof pass for more amazing views and twisty roads that fortunately were not very busy.
On to Paarl and the motorway that took us back to towards Cape Town and Kraaifontein, where Margaret's mother lives.
DAY SIX - VIEW SIX
The gardener was working in the garden when suddenly you couldn't see him for flying insects. (More on this in part 2).
Windy day but decided to take a look at Table View and Blouberg, where friends from England have a property. Great beach and ideal for kite surfing but the view of Table Mountain was fast fading in the increasing clouds. The Table had its tablecloth and soon disappeared completely. Drove back through the Durbanville Hills which was very nice.
DAY SEVEN - VIEW SEVEN
No views to speak of today. Unless you count the Cape Gate shopping mall.
DAY EIGHT - VIEW EIGHT
But we made up for yesterday, today. Went to Cape Point. (see picture, says it all).
Making our way to Muizenberg we took the coastal road around the Cape Peninsula, clock-wise. This allows you to be on the side of the road nearest the sea and therefore a better view of the scenery. This is one of the most spectacular drives in the world with breathtaking views around every corner. Also if you drive round clock-wise you leave the best till last, the icing on the cake, that is the final road around Chapman's Peak into Hout Bay. Only on this occasion we were denied this treat. The weekend rains had closed the road and we had to detour inland and back to Hout Bay. On a point of accuracy this isn't the end of the road as there is a final section from Hout Bay to Sea Point that skirts the Twelve Apostle mountain peaks on one side with the ocean right there on the other. This whole scenic drive you have to see to believe.
Spent the evening in Hout Bay with Yvonne and Anthony + friends, celebrating Yvonne's birthday.
DAY NINE - VIEW NINE
Went big game hunting with Margaret's mum, looking for Tyger Valley Shopping centre. Which apparently was so big you couldn't miss it, unless you was us! Crazy day, but at least we lived to tell the tale.
DAY TEN - VIEW TEN
Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens. Rated 4th best attraction in the Cape behind Table Mountain, the National Park and Cape of Good Hope. It was top of my list this time to see as we'd missed it last visit.
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| View 10 - Birds of Paradise (Strelitzia reginae) |
It was worth the wait. There's so much to take in with the mind-boggling displays of plants, grasses and trees. Just amazing - all the different areas to walk around. The cycads were possibly my favourite, but then on another day it might be the proteas or primeval forest. Not to mention the sugarbush and sun birds darting everywhere and the numerous birds of paradise plants. Such variety was extraordinary, you really could go again and again.
And with a new tree top walkway about to open next year, I can't wait. See: www.sanbi.org/news/look-out-big-boomslang-kirstenbosch-summer
Met Margaret's friend Fiona and her boys Thomas and Adrian for lunch and then they guided us around the gardens they knew so well.
DAY ELEVEN - VIEW ELEVEN
A hot day in prospect (30c) so headed for the beach. Margaret's mum came along and we drove through the Durbanville Hills to Melkbosstrand and Blouberg. Had a paddle in the ocean and then went to the nice restaurant in Blouberg we had found the previous time. Very clear day and Table Mountain was looking its very best. (see pic below)
DAY TWELVE - VIEW TWELVE
Went to Hout Bay to nose around at some properties. Speculating! And why not at these prices.
Stopped off in Meadowridge as Margaret caught up with her friend Wendy. (See the lovely 'House & Garden' picture).
DAY THIRTEEN - VIEW THIRTEEN
In the mist and rain and not out of choice (having to return a few items) we went back to Tyger Valley Shopping mall and experienced, once again with Margaret's mum, the same tedium of finding the place a second time. No more, we vowed.
DAY FOURTEEN - VIEW FOURTEEN
Early start for Hout Bay. We had a plan but this all changed. (see part 2).
Spent the afternoon in Claremont with Natalie and Rob, Natalie's mum Nellie who is now living with them and joined by Lynne. Braai, drinks, music and partying in roughly that order.
DAY FIFTEEN - VIEW FIFTEEN
Relaxing day. Picked out a restaurant in Franschhoek for the evening but drove over there late afternoon. This proved a real find. Roca at the Dieu Donne Estate was off the main road just before you got into town. Up a side road we climbed. Ever upwards we doubted ourselves, but then a sign, a left turn across a bridge and there it was. As we entered the restaurant you could see the view. The whole of the Franschhoek valley spread out before you, it was simply stunning. We had 'sundowners' on the outside terrace before eating at our window table. It felt like a family christmas dinner treat. Happy Days.
You'd expect such fantastic surroundings to come at a price, and while it was above the average for South Africa, it seemed no more than London prices. Indeed I now have the credit card bill and with the favourable exchange rate we had drinks, starters and mains for three that cost us just £15 each. A gem of a place in an unforgettable setting.
DAY SIXTEEN - VIEW SIXTEEN
Last day. We returned to Hout Bay one more time. (more on this in part 2).
Had a quick drink with Lynne in the 'local' Woodcutters Arms, serving Cape Brewing Co. draft beer. Final drive back to Kraaifontein via that Twelve Apostle road, as the sun was setting. Physically and metaphorically on this holiday.
The much alluded to PART 2 of this intrepid tale of daring-do will follow soon on our 'tales' blog page.
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| View 5 - from Bain's Kloof pass |
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| View 8 - from Cape Point |
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| View 11 - Table mountain from Blouberg |
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| View 12 - Wendy's House & Garden |
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| View 15 - Roca restaurant, Franschhoek |
