Half the fun of travel

If you're like me and believe half the fun of travel is in the planning and anticipation then you'll understand my enjoyment at the work involved in researching and booking a trip. Made so much easier and quicker these days due to the wealth of information and options provided by the internet. Memories of pouring over maps, plotting distances and marking routes. Reading through guide books and visiting tourist offices to gather leaflets and finding out the latest visa information for your intended destination. Not to mention phone calls and waiting on the line for ages. All now a past participation verb. So much easier today, but the journey is still the same, the planning just as exciting.
And it still leaves and takes nothing away from the actual travelling part.
The anticipation and excitement in what's expected but also the unexpected. The what you know, but don't really know.
However, as sometimes happens a place doesn't quite come up to expectations you can at least be glad you didn't missed out the 50% planning part. 

And then you get to the point where you just want to go. Like now !  Must fly >

> A new instalment of mandb trips. Coming this December.

Sunny Southern Spain

Between the sunrise and the moon-rise the days were bathed in sunshine. And so were we – at 37ºc outside, in the pool was the place to be.
A backdrop of wonderful views and buzzing bushes of lavender full of pollinating butterflies and bees, we had the local flies feasting on us, while we feasted on the local produce !
Acclimatising to the Spanish Way – early morning activities > siesta > late dinner – was something we never quite mastered in just seven days. It made total sense but with our minds and bodies firmly in holiday mode, we really didn't care less: "I'd love another beer/glass of wine" a more pressing decision than the time of day.
This relaxed regime of sun-bathing, book reading and al fresco tapas, fitted in well with another dip in the wonderful pool.

37ºc or 98.6º F    and my phone: weather info 

WEATHER WATCH >
Beautiful blue skies, until Wednesday when a wispy white cloud caused mild excitement. Followed late afternoon on Thursday and Friday, when some other clouds of an altogether more menacing colour brought rain with added thunder and lightning to great effect. Our high up vantage point provided a grandstand view.

Enough of all that, here's >
The FACTS and PHOTOS
We had previously visited Montefrio and stayed at Claire and John's lovely house seven years ago. Not much had changed but the garden certainly had.

(Top shot) in 2010.  (Lower view) this time.

For the first few days we were joined by friends Steve and Gill (who'd been in Granada before we arrived) and like mad dogs and English people we had walked around the town and in the heat of the afternoon visited the nearby Las Penas de los Gitanos (Neolithic archaeological site) and met Pacqui - who I suspect none of us will ever forget. In the shade she walked us through the site, but stopped short of walking along with us, providing strict instructions, water and trusting us with the gate key!

(Clockwise) The town of Montefrio from the top of the castillo / Archaeological site on a hot afternoon / and the dreaded selfie with scenic background.

The insect life in the garden was always present. One very strange looking creature, no more than 2cm long caught my eye as it appeared to hover and take the pollen almost like a bird. I discovered it was a 'hummingbird moth' - and even took a picture (of sorts).

(Left) Swallowtail butterfly.  (Right) Very strange hummingbird moth.

We did manage a morning walk on a footpath that circled away from the house and then back into the town. A coffee stop and a plan for dinner followed this, but the thunderstorm prevented any such repeat the day after.

Beer o'clock time. CHEERS 

Our final excursion on Saturday was to Granada before the airport. We'd been there on our last visit so we just wandered around the narrow winding streets of the moorish Albaycin district. However the heat beat us and we subsequently arrived early at the airport to a temperature reading of 41ºc >>>



I'll let Margaret wind this up by announcing: 
"During this year (within 4 months) I've experienced my coldest temperatures ever in Sweden (-15ºc) and now the hottest (+41ºc) in Granada". 

Panorama - Las Pilas de la Dehesa, Montefrio.

Few more photos >

(Left) Margaret 'shaking her tail feather'.           (Right) Outdoor wining and dining.

(Bottom left) Rooibos Cannabis Tea, Granada                                                     Moon-rise, Montefrio

Northern Lights

As the plane descended over the arctic tundra you sensed you were entering a very different world far more colourful than the black and white scene emerging through the window. Forests of pine and dwarf birch divided by areas and ribbons of pure white, stretching in all directions. A land of lakes and rivers frozen solid and topped with snow.

This Northern Lights Tour took us 350km (217 miles) inside the arctic circle to the tiny town of Karesuando which borders Sweden with Finland. It's been called a one-elk town and those of us seeking the Northern Lights - Glow Getters ! But would we see the magic in the sky of the Aurora Borealis ? The forecast was for cloudy skies and temperatures nowhere near as cold as we'd packed for or anticipated.  

What we did know was that our trip included a Snowshoe trek, an evening Forest Trek, Snowmobile safari, Reindeer camp and a Husky ride - when these were taking place was the first thing we found out on arrival at the Arctic Star Hotel. Our day-to-day planner all mapped out and everybody supplied with thermal suits and boots, the fun was about to start. See Map here

Day One: Snowshoe Introduction & Forest Trek
After being shown how to put the Snowshoes on off we all wandered across the frozen lake and through the forest and back again. A nice leisurely morning stroll in Lapland.
With the afternoon free we walked into town to see the church and then made our way over the meter thick ice of the River Muorio into Finland, just in time to find the Lapland Shop closed. Somewhat confusing Finland was one hour ahead of Sweden. As most of the activities took place in Finland we were working on their time despite actually staying in Sweden. 
The Forest Trek in the evening was up and away into the forest behind the Davvi Arctic Lodge - the other accommodation used by our travel company. The snow was falling lightly, which was picturesque and atmospheric but stopped any chance of the Northern Lights joining us.

Day Two: Call of the Wild - Husky Safari
An early morning drive of 20km into Finland, the overnight snow provided a fresh backdrop for the Husky ride. We had a briefing on how to operate the sledge with vital information on how to slow the dogs down with the two types of braking system. All set, off we went in a flurry of activity and bodily functions, our team of five huskies kicking up quite a stink, that wafted our way. It was bouncy and at times a bit 'white-knuckle', but wonderful. We switched drivers and passengers mid-way and as our video proves I thought I'd lost Margaret, off the back, at one point. See here: https://youtu.be/mHjb6JxxKBQ
The rest of our day was our own and we visited the local museum up the road from the hotel. 
The sun had appeared briefly at lunchtime, but for the rest of the day the skies remained firmly overcast and grey. Margaret found a website: http://www.aurora-service.eu and spent ages charting the possibilities of us seeing the Lights tomorrow - which would be our last night and final opportunity. (We're talking kp2 here!)

Day Three: Reindeer Camp & Northern Lights Snowmobile Safari
With nothing planned until the afternoon we wandered into town to the two shops that sold 'everything you could possibly want' before walking across the river past a snowmobile fisherman with a drill-bit, fishing through the ice. Finally visited the shop in Finland before heading back for lunch.
On the drive to the Reindeer camp the snow began falling, but soon stopped and the clouds broke up and gloriously the sun shone. Beautiful slow reindeer sleigh ride along the river as we all hoped the clear skies would last into the night.
Reindeer video - this one is like watching 'slow TV': https://youtu.be/uLpun5rfmCw

The Snowmobile safari began around 8pm. Another important briefing on how to drive these machines and a reassuring message that their speed limiter had been switched on. It was fast, bumpy and exhilarating but not too accelerating, as we buzzed off down the river in darkness, the snowmobile steering us rather than the other way around. At the half-way stage we stopped for a breather and a glass of 'glogi' and a bit of star gazing. And then it started. Bands of light slowly spread across the northern sky and began changing their shape. Green light was pulsing and dancing in the night sky. We had to get back on the snowmobiles but the Northern Lights didn't care they continued their display for the return journey swirling and twisting great green shapes above us. On our final night, you couldn't have scripted it better.
By 10pm the show was over but rather than think to myself 'right, I've seen them now', I knew I wanted to see them again.

Day Four: Ice Hotel Visit
This was an optional extra excursion. Not cheap - in fact it was expensive - but we were glad we did it. 
Icehotel 27 (the 27th time it has been built before melting and sliding back into the Torne River every Spring) is situated in Jukkasjarvi near Kiruna and the airport. 
Our final hours in Lapland were spent in the sunshine and -5c of the Ice rooms - variously themed and beautifully sculptured it was quite something.

Glossary: 
kp2 - refers to the kp index. A scale 0 to 9 used to indicate the level needed to view the Northern Lights. 
glögi - is a warm Finnish drink similar to mulled wine - with blueberries and not much wine.

Photo Gallery: A selection

Snowshoe walk on frozen lake

On the border

Other links:

Music moment >>>

Travel Company & Tour >>> 

More reindeer >>>

Huskies

21st century ice fishing

Reindeer camp

Reindeer Sleigh Ride

Group shot

Inside the Ice Hotel

And finally the proof  
- the best shot taken by one of our group of the Northern Lights.

More Vietnam: Sightseeing

A further selection of photos from Vietnam. Many involving bikes, some simply surprising, others plain funny or fascinating but mostly just ones we liked and wanted to share.


(Left: Dragon in temple courtyard - Hoi An)

Our lovely receptionist. Noble Boutique Hotel.

(And below)
- People we meet
- Dog photos
- Street scenes
- More bike pictures
- and US

Hai (friendly two finger greeting in Vietnam). Girls day out at the Hue citadel.

Cycle Ride near Hoi An. I think Margaret's practising her 'Hai' sign ?

Lady on bike 'walking' her four dogs (one half hidden)

Dog sleeping in the road. Really!

Street scene 1: Hat anyone ?

Street scene 2: Propaganda Posters

Street scene 3: Barbers shop - on pavement amongst bikes and caged birds

Lights 'n' bikes. Indoor parking and riding down a narrow alley in Hoi An

Bike haulage. If it will fit, we can transport it.

Click here

Click on the photo caption above for a short video of our bike ride over the Hai Van Pass.





And now for something completely different: a few entertaining captions we thought up….

You can't sleep there mate. Our man in Hanoi, taking a break.

Restaurant on Lang Co lagoon. Our favourite.

Banhmy Sandwich place in Hanoi. Scott's favourite.

Vietnam: March 2016

Having grown up in the Sixties to a background of news broadcasts reporting on the Vietnam War, places like Saigon, Danang, Hanoi and mention of Viet Cong forces, U.S. marines, strategic bombing and Ho Chi Minh became familiar phrases. As the decade closed, anti-war demonstrations and songs increased and in 1973 America withdrew, with the war ending in 1975. Further disruption followed in Indo-China with war between Vietnam, Cambodia and China leading to large numbers of Vietnamese fleeing the country as millions of refugee 'boat people' took to the sea as means of escape.
As a consequence I never remotely believed I'd visit Vietnam in my lifetime. 
But time passes quickly and by the mid 1990s tourists began visiting Vietnam and since then in increasing numbers. A 2001 trade agreement with the U.S. was significant and now it seems the 'Resistance War against America' is long ago. They even price goods in shops in U.S. dollars, for the convenience of visitors.

Ever since returning from our visit I've been trying to concisely sum up Vietnam. It was extraordinary and an amazing trip, but summing it up, impossible! So I've gone for a selection of panels about certain aspects hoping to capture some of the flavour of the country, or at least the parts we saw: Which went as follows -

Good Morning Vietnam - HANOI 

The traffic, the people, the activity, the smells, the language all too much for our brains affected by a long flight. My mind racing, no time to recover normal service. Buzzing to a barrage of vehicle horns. An assault on the senses. 

Overwhelming at first, our introduction to Vietnam was to be guided by my son Scott and his girlfriend Issie (who've been living in Hanoi since last April and a visit to see them had long been planned) on what to do, where to go and how to go about it. This resulted in taking most of the guess work out and made for an action packed holiday.
Hanoi is in the North, a long way from the South and Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon). See map I made overlaying Vietnam on the UK. 

We spent three days in Hanoi before flying 330 miles down to Danang to spend time in what we hoped would be a warmer and sunnier part of the country.

Xin Chào - HOI AN

A short distance from Danang is the beautiful traditional town of Hoi An, where we spent a few days unwinding in the calmer surroundings of the Hoai River, An Hoi island, An Bang beach and the wonderful ancient town of Hoi An. We cycled through rice fields and dined on fresh mango and shrimp spring rolls. Visited a village for the almost obligatory cooking lesson and just wandered around the enchanting town, which at night took on a whole new atmosphere with lanterns and gently piped music along its streets. Not to mention shopping (and haggling) for jackets. Which I'm not going to mention, but will reveal all, if asked. 

Hoi An was great and we loved it but the journey from there to Hue was something special.

Le Family Riders - BIKE RIDE

I could probably write a whole blog entry, all of its very own and separate from here, just about this fantastic trip. In fact that's what I'm going to do. See this link http://mandbtales1.blogspot.co.uk/2016/04/bike-ride.html - and other map, as indicated above on main map.

Hi - HUE

This was the briefest of visits. Arrived 5.30pm by motorbike, enjoyed the hospitality of our hotel, walked to the Perfume River, couple of drinks and checked out for a 10.30 flight the next morning. The hotel desk clerk had insisted we not miss the Citadel and if we'd known would have planned to spend longer in Hue. As it turned out we had an hour of sightseeing and just as the day was warming up nicely and the sky was turning blue, we flew back north into clouds.

HALONG BAY

After an afternoon and evening back in Hanoi, we were up bright and early for our 3 days/2 nights trip to Halong Bay. Just three hours by bus we then transferred to a boat for a cruise through the bay and some of the thousands of limestone karats and islands that make up this UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the New 7 Wonders of the World. Unfortunately Margaret was not feeling well and missed most of the first day but recovered for the second half spent overnight at an island resort.
This would have been very nice and relaxing if some sun had made it as idyllic as it sounded in the travel blurb at the time of booking. The weather wasn't cold but the resort was fairly basic and there wasn't much to do or a lot to discover without a boat or kayak. We choose the latter and in the low tide waters, lets just say, it proved less than a leisurely paddle. (Details upon request, if you have not already heard the story).
Travelling back the final day the mist seemed even thicker and the shadowy mystery of the scenery more remarkable. I have seen postcards of Halong Bay with blue skies and sunsets, but mostly it appears cloaked in cloud and without sounded too cryptic, perhaps that is how it is and why it is. 
Amazing place. Very popular though, lets hope it doesn't get spoilt by tourism as there were signs of this already.

Click the titles here for our videos on YouTube:  Road Crossing - Old Hanoi street shops - Taking the traffic - each one presents a different angle.

Chào buôi sang - HANOI

Back in Hanoi we settled for the last five days. Catching up with Scott and Issie and generally taking it easy after all the rushing about. Having given up on the weather totally we just went with the flow of overcast skies, misty drizzle, hazy humidity and wearing warmer clothes. The shorts would remain unworn and the sun cream unrequired.

We got to drink coffee to our hearts content (see above), cycle around the big lake 'Ho Tay', visit the Hanoi Hilton (Hoa Lo Prison), go up the Lotte Tower for a fantastic 360 view of Hanoi, wrapped in complementary blankets while drinking cold beer, sample Pho cocktails, have a massage and become semi hooked on Banh Mi (Vietnam's sandwich par excellence). 
The city was still crazy but we enjoyed it and our hotel provided an escape route to calm the nerves, charge the batteries and head out for further adventures of M&B in Vietnam.

Selfie with Ho Chi Minh photobombing us
(he died in 1969, that's his mausoleum in the background)

I've not really mentioned the Vietnamese people, who were very welcoming, hard working and enterprising, always helpful and fun. This may best be demonstrated with more pictures - which will appear in a second blog > coming very soon.